Jump to content
SAU Community

New House Garage Floor/workshop Sealer?

Angus Smart
 Share

Recommended Posts

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
Posted

Just built a new house and want to seal the floor of the garage.

so many different products out there i would like to know whats best? i spill oil water etc when working on cars.

i seen in this section many photos of cars sitting on nice clean garage floors

Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted

If you can afford to, do a polyurethane or epoxy type floor seal. This is nothing like hardware store floor sealer.

These surfaces are used in industrial high traffic areas, the food factories I've worked in renew them every 5 years or so; as a home garage floor it would be next to indestructible.

You can steam clean, no damage, use jacks etc, no problem. They can be textured or a gloss finish; the gloss is like glass.

lidz Community Regular

lidz

Posted
Posted

get onto http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/ it's basically SAU but for garages / workshops & is quite frankly awesome. Has a whole section on Flooring.

Then recommend getting into the 'garage gallery' section which is basically build threads. Current favourites are The Concrete Underground, 44 Bikes Frame Shop & Mark's Monster Garage but seriously heaps of awesome builds.

Prepare to lose hours / days / weeks...

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

The epoxy flooring is tough, but certainly not indestructible. I have 2 garage floors done in this stuff (total about 240m2) and if you drop sharp steel objects on it hard enough it will damage the coating. I just finished fabricating a heap of shelving and work benches and dragging 100kg shelf units across the floor (with sharp edges on the end of the feet) does scratch / damage the surface. If you drop something heavy onto the concrete, it'll crumble the concrete underneath and the poly coating will come off.

Still, this stuff is infinitely stronger than paint, so will stand up to general wear and tear (dragging jacks across the floor, pressure washing, oil spills etc.)

Also remember some of it is very slippery when wet.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I used paving/concrete paint from bunnings, and it is starting to wear after only 12 months of weekend use. So depending on price of the epoxy stuff I would go that instead. It still looks good overall and seals oil/water properly but I don't think its going to last as long as I'd like.

Most workshops that use paint redo it every year.

Also it's important to acid etch the floor first or it will flake off early.

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Shit, that garage forum will have me stuck for hours!

it seems poly or epoxy is the way to go. bout 499 for 20L which should do my floor and my old mans also tho his will need a fair bit of cleaning or diamond cutting back since its over 10 years old and is fairly worn. both about 6x6m

djr81 Grand Master

djr81

Posted
Posted

Shit, that garage forum will have me stuck for hours!

it seems poly or epoxy is the way to go. bout 499 for 20L which should do my floor and my old mans also tho his will need a fair bit of cleaning or diamond cutting back since its over 10 years old and is fairly worn. both about 6x6m

You want a rough surface for the paint to stick to. It mechanically adheres to the concrete it doesnt react with it. So clean it, degrease it and etch it with either the proper etching stuff or if you know what you are doing and are careful (fkn careful) acid.

  • 1 month later...
Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so i've done the clean, and sand of the garage floor. @$#%^^$# asian painters and plasterers that did my house are a bunch of messy %@$$^#$%&$%^$%

Did the etch on wednesday afternoon and have now got the first layer of epoxy down its starting to look pretty good. except for the small cracks everywhere.

will grab a photo today after the second coat. i ended up buying the epoxy from csw coatings 10L kit will do two pretty thick coats on my 6x6 m2 floor.

Shoota_77 Veteran

Shoota_77

Posted
Posted

How much was the 10L? I've got a 6X7 garage and 14X8 shed to do, both new concrete.

Would you still need to etch clean a brand new floor? Obviously clean off the concrete dust and give it a good wash but would it need an etch?

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Amerlock 400 is the go

My garage is done in this. After looking at dads shed, about 15 years its had the stuff on it and we have dragged, dropped, got thiners, oil etc on it and the only bit that has been damaged is missing a chunk of concrete. The stuff is great

We got it locally at an industrial paint etc supplier, can't remember how much but about 10L did the garage floor, the small shed slab and a little bit of concrete where my small clothes line is. Will try and get a photo in a bit

Angus Smart Grand Master

Angus Smart

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How much was the 10L? I've got a 6X7 garage and 14X8 shed to do, both new concrete.

Would you still need to etch clean a brand new floor? Obviously clean off the concrete dust and give it a good wash but would it need an etch?

bout 300 i think i spent. acid, masks, paint rollers and metal paint pole + other shit

i had to sand my floor in many places, and get the high pressure hose on it , and yep etch is a must unless you grind.

i mixed half the 10l bucket and did two coats for 6x6 and had enough left over to do a fair bit more so a 20L would get you done with two coats.

post-31456-0-28551300-1385110007_thumb.jpg

sweefu Mentor

sweefu

Posted
Posted

Would anything like this be OK? Or not worth the bother? Not cheap by any means.
I just need to paint half the concrete floor of a double garage.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/berger-jet-dry-10l-heavy-duty-evening-stone-paving-paint_p1410009

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...