Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cihan (Etuner) is over sunshine way, at Edge Motorworks. He would most probably be able to get a map together for you to drive down if needs be. So would Trent at Checkered tuning, but he is over Dandenong way and most probably booked for weeks. They are both worth having a chat to.

Do you have a wideband going in? Very useful for remote logging/tuning...

Thanks for the information guys its going to a few weeks away at moment

tied up with work for while

won't install injectors & Haltech yet as advised

Was able to get the injector size changed before they dispatch my 0rder from supplier from 555cc to 740cc now

hopefully this will work out ok and get the car running properly

and then i'll have to find a better Diff, I was told 1.5way LSD

thanks again

If the car is going to be driven on the street, then a nice fresh 1.5way lsd is the way to go... a 2 way or a locked diff is just asking for headaches and annoyance.

Do you know exactly which diff is in your car at the moment?

  • 2 months later...

Cihan (Etuner) is over sunshine way, at Edge Motorworks. He would most probably be able to get a map together for you to drive down if needs be. So would Trent at Checkered tuning, but he is over Dandenong way and most probably booked for weeks. They are both worth having a chat to.

Do you have a wideband going in? Very useful for remote logging/tuning...

Id agree with taking it to Cihan at Edge, he is very good at what he does, Barry can instal all the parts there before it hits the dyno.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

No tuner will fit the SAFC these days, unless he just wants to just take all your money.

Seriously, just buy an Adaptronic. The ECU is a critical piece of the tuning puzzle, it's all that's stopping you from melting pistons. If you can't afford a decent ECU you really need to ask yourself if you should be modifying it at all.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...