Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

abs or non abs R32?

if abs then you have a BM50 already and thus should be no issues. If non abs then i would recommend the BM50 or upto BM57. They are readily available in both ABS and NON ABS versions however

Holford have them on this site under the business traders section aswell for the NON ABS BM50 otherwise $500 from nissan (or there abouts)

abs or non abs R32?

if abs then you have a BM50 already and thus should be no issues. If non abs then i would recommend the BM50 or upto BM57. They are readily available in both ABS and NON ABS versions however

Holford have them on this site under the business traders section aswell for the NON ABS BM50 otherwise $500 from nissan (or there abouts)

Yep holford sell for $139 however it is a Z32 copy so different biasing.

i did the same upgrade as richard (sinista32, went from stock 32R to 33R brembo, initially BMC wasn't changed so BM50 was being used and i did not like the pedal feel, longer travel, so swapped out to bmc57, much better pedal feel, same as i had with original setup, no issues now

Just thinking out loud here - could it possibly be that calipers are incorrectly centered on rotors? I mean, axial offset might cause that.

One pad touches rotor prior to the other, and therefore gives that mushy feel at the beginning pad engagement and longer than expected travel, and when opposite pad engages - solid deceleration.

That is sort of what brake knock off is, the gap between pressing the brake pedal and when the brake pad actually touches, it is not adjustable though, both pads are connected to the same fluid line and everything is mounted solidly so I don't see how one could hit before the other, however if it did I doubt that is the issue, would probably add more modulation if anything tbh.

The mushy feel at the start is the knock off, eg no braking for a bit of the travel.

Cheers for the thought though!

Yeah, you won't get uneven pads to rotor gap from side to side (except perhaps on the first application after putting it all back together) because after the pressure is released the wobble in the rotor and the springiness of the piston seals will pull/push the pads back approximately the same each side. The only time this might not be true is if there was a substantial difference in how springy the seals are on each side.

My take on all of this .

Brake type hydraulics work on a system of different size pistons in the master compared to the calipers . If the master piston was the same size as the calipers the pressure ratio would be 1 to 1 . You use smaller master pistons to get an increased pressure because 1 to 1 wouldn't clamp the pads on the disks nearly hard enough .

The smaller the master size is for a given caliper piston size the higher the pressure ratio goes , but because the volume the master moves is less the further it's piston has to move to get the same caliper piston movement .

Id say the best way to look at upgrading brakes , to a higher performance factory system , is the change it as a system meaning the four rotors calipers and master cylinder . Maybe even the booster too .

Assuming the pedal box is the same then everything is sized to work together and the only remaining question is brake bias front to rear . GTRs are front heavy compared to RWD Skylines and only some of the late ones got the larger rear discs .

Because of hydraulic differences between Skyline models it can be easier to go up a rotor size at the front and use caliper leg extensions to make them fit . I've seen this done to R33s to get 224mm rotors on but it may cause a bias problem and I'm not sure if there are extensions to do the same at the rear .

My 2c cheers A .

Rolls, probably too late a reply but ive got a r32 gtst type M. .(abs) I put r33 gts front rotors/pads on the front only as the backs were the same size from 32 to 33

Even allowing for the facts my 32 front rotors were scored and low on pad material the change in braking was quite noticeable, ive not changed the MC and every thing is working good

Hope this helps

  • 3 weeks later...

i did the same upgrade as richard (sinista32, went from stock 32R to 33R brembo, initially BMC wasn't changed so BM50 was being used and i did not like the pedal feel, longer travel, so swapped out to bmc57, much better pedal feel, same as i had with original setup, no issues now

Is it something like that you bought ? https://holfordmotors.com/store/HFM-46010-30p02-1

It seems uncertains which BM57 ABS should fit on a BNR32.. it appears the R33 is different than the one form r34 and unsure if I need to buy R32 v-spec or could fit a R34 gtr ?

thanks for the help :)

I can't remember where I got my M/C but it is a Nissan part. I don't know if the Z32 and GTR ones are in fact any different - someone with access to Nissan FAST may be able to tell. I do know I put a Z32 recond kit in it (new piston, seals and springs etc). It seems to work perfectly on my Nissan Stagea - AWD, 330mm 8pot D2s on the front and R32GTR 2 pots on the back - pulls up straight every time and my brakes get a hammering on the track - really, really hot when I pull in. My brake pedal goes about 1/3 way to the floor at most.

Markings on the M/C:

BM57 Nissan

1 1/16

NABCO Japan

850RF

The two lines are marked with a large letter F (nearest the firewall) and R

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
    • And yes with a full tank it will hit limiter free revving or driving 6B6CDF6E-4094-426D-A9CB-6C553475FE36.mp4
    • One way of putting the fuel surge idea to rest, is that even when in neutral/clutch in or free revving it still has the same issue, it can’t even get to limiter (7800) so to me that says it can’t be g force, I’m not trying to argue I just want to find the f&$king issue 😡
×
×
  • Create New...