Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

3.5L runs a different plug, and has different CAN protocols. The 2.5dd, 3.0dd and 2.5det all run the same ecu plug with slightly different pinouts.

Most 3.5L ecu's will work, without cam actuation. If you want the cams to work, you will need to reprogram the frequency/degree and self learning, which only the Haltech Elite can do afaik, and without Haltech support you are up the creek (as Mercury found out the hard way). Short story- Don't bother at this time.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...

Hi... I'm Rick and I'm new to the stagea forums... I have a a m35 arx and.am about to start modifying it... As for ecu options I have read all the covered options and decided to do some searching of my own... The only other option I found other then what has been covered is something called UP REV OSIRIS TUNER... I believe rev zone are the dealers in melbourne for this. I have spoken to them and they want to see my car and plug in a diagnostic to see if they can licence the ecu... Anyone been down this path???

The only ecu options available and proven is the Emanage piggyback, or the HDI Maxrom afm signal bender. (unless you can find a discontinued VQ25det specific loom for the HKS Fcon Vpro. This is by far the best option, and the most expensive)

The Adaptronic has issues, as does any other standalone at this stage. Personally it's hard to go past the Emanage Ultimate in Melbourne at least, as there is a tuner here willing to touch it.

The Osirus dongle can't read our map, it just comes up as jibberish, corrupt data, as ours isn't the same OBD2 protocol as they are used to dealing with. We tried this path years ago and nothing has changed to my knowledge.

What are your power goals? I can suggest the best option for you that way.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Just translated it..
For that price you may as well just get an emanage..
Description of item It becomes NISMO computer.
Dirt.
It is not failure of the coupler.
There is no problem with the mounting portion.
Data is unknown.
Seal is not affixed to the full.
Operation verification ending.
There are a small wound. Detailed condition, please refer to the image.
Edited by Reaperblitz

Just translated it..

For that price you may as well just get an emanage..

Description of item It becomes NISMO computer.

Dirt.

It is not failure of the coupler.

There is no problem with the mounting portion.

Data is unknown.

Seal is not affixed to the full.

Operation verification ending.

There are a small wound. Detailed condition, please refer to the image.

The nismo is something you want to use combined with the emanage. It fixes a few issues the emanage can't. Speed limiter and throttle issues etc

80000YEN is not good deal for nismo ecu, it could get an e-manage with tuned around 1300AUD

I don't think you fully understand just how different a Nismo ECU is, compared to a stock one.

I don't think you fully understand just how different a Nismo ECU is, compared to a stock one.

I am also using aftermarket ecu right now. I just want to say the low value compare with the high price. I was not saying nismo ecu equal to emanage.

I am also using aftermarket ecu right now. I just want to say the low value compare with the high price. I was not saying nismo ecu equal to emanage.

i would agree with this, i don't think its worth the price

i would agree with this, i don't think its worth the price

If it was it would be sold already.

Interesting that the emanage is still the most capable ecu on the market at the moment, and the only things it doesn't get rid of is the Speed and rev cut. If those worry you, then any way around them will be expensive.

180 km/h limit ?

Damn, I was looking forward to testing my stock brakes and suspension at 200 +

you can buy HKS SLD (speed limit defencer) to unlock 180km/h if you can't find cheap aftermarket M35 ECU.

you can buy HKS SLD (speed limit defencer) to unlock 180km/h if you can't find cheap aftermarket M35 ECU.

Agreed, mine works well, but understand you are cutting the main CAN communication lines to install it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...