Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Haha fair enough. How come you're wanting to change to an Evo?

My GTT with stock cooling was reaching oil temps of 110+ after ~3 hot laps and water temps were 110 minimum rising to 130 with a few hot laps. I fitted a 52mm Fenix radiator and some China oil cooler with a Greddy block and now I don't think I have seen either go over 80 degrees and I give it hell so both definitely make a huge difference.

Tossing up between making my R34 400hp ish and doing lots of track days or buying an evo ix.

Mostly because the evo is a much newer car and it's easy to find one in immaculate condition and they make close to 280kw with a few boltons and e85. Would make a decent daily I think.

Edited by owen1r

Oh hey!

That is I. I have both an R34 and the EVO X, My brother also has an EVO 8 MR.

EVO X is a great daily, and the missus loves beating everything in traffic without trying. But as a weekend car I get more excited driving the Skyline then the Evo.

When I cbf driving the EVO is great.

Evo 8MR is more raw and exciting then the Evo X, so would probably be similair with the Evo 9. But i would say the Evo would get boring quick if your looking for that x factor

Here is my Evo

10984239_10206007752019213_2474433779828

  • Like 1

Not what I wanted to hear, make this choice even harder..Another idea is R32 GTR, as they can do both skids and the whole traction thing...

That track day video made me laugh haha! :laugh: Looks like much fun was had!

Best fun I've ever had in my car, pants off situations included.

Not what I wanted to hear, make this choice even harder..Another idea is R32 GTR, as they can do both skids and the whole traction thing...

Best fun I've ever had in my car, pants off situations included.

Depends what you want:

Evo: Fast, comfortable, new, better handling out of the box. Would kill a GTR on the streets and twisties and tight track. No soul

GTR: Intangible feeling of a car you want

  • 6 months later...

Sold the car a few months ago, now driving around in a Toyota Starlet.

I've looked at a heap of R32 GTR's, none have been up to scratch and most had rust/paint issues or required buckets of money poured into them. I've kind of given up in finding a decent R32 GTR and have since been looking at Evo IX's.

  • Like 1

They are an old chassis, that's for sure. Looking at my R34 now and seeing some problems that are arising, then considering a Skyline 2 generations it's senior - no way in hell I'd ever be happy buying something that old.

Oh well. Best of luck to you and your new Evo. Still think the sale of your 34 was a mistake. :P

  • 5 months later...

Well... After a year of searching and inspecting around 15 cars, I've finally found a replacement. 

I have to learn how to drive the damn thing, having driven an auto commodore for the best part of a year. Genuinley scares the shit out of me.

Thought I'd update this thread as supra forums are shite at best, and to provide a comparison to the R34 if anyone is looking to switch ;) 

14375175_10210592075621116_364613211_o.jpg

14375242_10208706727279172_737939104_o.jpg

14393921_10208706727319173_1628157161_o.jpg

14423809_10208706725119118_1935342789_o.jpg

14424071_10208706726599155_1642683027_o.jpg

14446370_10208706727799185_149107664_o.jpg

  • Like 1

Currently makes 526hp at 22psi on 98, more than double what my R34 would of been putting out lol

Major Mods:

HKS T04z

6boost

Tial 44mm wastegate

HKS 272 Cams

HKS Cam gears

ID2000 injectors

Titan Motorsports fuel rail

Fuel Lab Pressure Reg

HKS Type-R Intercooler

Haltech PS2000

3.5 inch dump with screamer, including interchangeable plumb back pipeScreamer, manifold, all ceramic coated

Blitz NUR Exhaust

K&N Pod 

Exedy Hyper Carbon Twin Plate

B03B Diff

MintSpeed Titanium Strut Brace

Marks Engineering Poly Subframe and Diff mounts

Genuine Recaro Seat. Driver and passenger

Momo Steering wheel

TRD 320kph Speedo

Defi boost gauge with controller

Alpine Stereo/GPS with Rockford Fosgate speakers.

SSR GTV 02 Wheels 18x9+45 front 18x9.5+35 rear, MT ET Streets on rear

STOPTECH BIG Brake Kit, 355mm Front and Rear, 6 piston front 4 piston rear, all braided lines

Powerhouse Industries Twin-in-tank fuel system

Cool car!

19 hours ago, owen1r said:

Thought I'd update this thread as supra forums are shite at best, and to provide a comparison to the R34 if anyone is looking to switch ;) 

So how does it compare? :)

Pretty similar to be honest, supra feels a like it's more of a GT car than a R34 is. Seating position is really low and perhaps not as comfortable as the R34, probably because I'm tall. Need to get some decent coilovers first as my R34 had all the nice handling mods/aggressive alignment, then I'll make the decision on which one I think handles better ;)

It's insane going from a 170kw to a 400kw car, still can't get my head around how quick it is and yet I see blokes who get sick of that power quickly and move onto 800 hp +, crazy. I'm sure in a year I'll want to do the same thing. Off boost drive-ability is still fantastic, but doesn't hit full boost until 4.5k-5k rpm and then it's all in at once. Definitely needs the boost curve flattened out a bit for traction. However in saying that, the 285 MT ET Streets hook up in second gear which I found very surprising. 

Keen to get out on the track asap to find out how it behaves when pushed and so I can finally go through a few gears at full throttle without getting to license loss speeds. 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
×
×
  • Create New...