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We don't have annual RWCs is WA. We only have to take a car for inspection if yellow stickered or registration lapses. As long as your car stays registered, you never have an inspection ...ever...

We don't have annual RWCs is WA. We only have to take a car for inspection if yellow stickered or registration lapses. As long as your car stays registered, you never have an inspection ...ever...

That's how things like this happen:

post-52031-12726087994694_thumb_zps20295

In all seriousness OP, you were better off buying a stock standard R33 if you were new to turbos. As with any car, you're not just buying a car. You're also buying someone else's pproblem.

I was new to turbos at one stage and guess what? I brought a very close to stock R33 and built it up from there. I was new to V8s too at one stage and guess what? Yep, I brought a stock one and have begun building that up.

People might be saying "but if you buy a modded one, you end up saving money on not having to do those mods" and I agree 100% BUT ONLY if you know what you are doing/looking for. In your case, you were fresh to turbos and you essentially brought a lemon. I can guarantee you 99% of the SAU members on here would not of brought the car you did, based purely on the "mods" that are done to that car.

Knowing what I know about turbos and V8s now, I can confidently buy a heavily modded example and know what to look for and how to maintain it. Unfortunatly, you've thrown yourself in the deep end and your only choice now is to fix the previous owner's problems. Consider it a hard lesson learnt and more than likely you'll end up spending more than the car purcahse price to get it to a level that would be acceptable.

Anyway, back on topic. You'll need to get a pipe made up which will mate up to the ext. wastegate flange and have it welded back downstream into the rest of the exhaust. That will reduce a MASSIVE amount fo noise when you're on boost. If your wastegate is leaking and considering it is vernting directly to the atmosphere (or should I say engine bay), that could also contribute to the extra nosie when you're off boost. Otherwise, get some mufflers thrown in by an exhasut shop if you want it quieten it down.

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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