Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We've got an R33 GTST, with an almost stock RB25DET. Only mods at this stage are a cat-back 3" exhaust, an R34 SMIC, and the 7psi boost solenoid mod. We have replaced all fluids & filters, timing belt & bearings, front & rear seals, water pump, & spark plugs (copper gapped to 0.8). We've found & fixed a few boost leaks & it seems to be running sweetly.

The car is registered, but will be used almost exclusively as a track car - doing hillclimbs, track days / supersprints at Malalla, and motorkhana / gymkhana type events. We don't want massive power (yet) but are looking for lots of torque with no lag & good response.

We are starting to gather bits to get it tuned, and deciding which way to go. Budget is a bit limited at the moment, so it will be a 2 (or more) stage process. So far we have a Z32 ECU with Nistune installed and a Z32 AFM, but neither are installed. We also have a Hicas lock bar to be fitted this weekend.

We are debating whether to do an injector upgrade (for E85 conversion) or a turbo upgrade (probably highflow the stock one) before the first tune - it will only be one or the other. Whichever one we don't do now will happen sometime late next year.

We will upgrade the fuel pump before doing anything, just to be safe. The first question then is what fuel pump should we be buying to support E85 and a highflowed turbo)?

We have a Blitz SBC boost controller (came in another car & doesn't need it). We aren't sure if it will be any use in the R33 with a Nistune ECU, and we are considering selling it to help fund the upgrades & tune. So the second question is should we keep the EBC or sell it - is it of any use to us?

An associated question is how does the stock boost solenoid work, and how does a Nistune control it to adjust boost (if at all)? Is the solenoid an on / off device, or is it pulsed to vary boost bleedoff?

Last question (for now anyway) is which way would you go first - E85 or highflowed turbo - and why? Costs are similar - around $800 for a set of ID1000 injectors with fuel rail & reg, and around $1000 to highflow the turbo. I'd expect power results to be similar.

For anyone starting to type "search the forum - it's all been discussed..." I have searched, and read a shit-load of posts (and conflicting opinions). I'm trying to tie it all together. Looking for constructive input.

Search the forum It's all been discussed.

But..... E85 on its own - useless. The stock turbo can't be run to high enough boost to make sufficient use of the extra knock resistance of the fuel. So get Stao's latest R33 highflow job done + 3" metal turbo intake.

Stock boost solenoid is simply a "low boost"/"high boost" switch and therefore effectively useless, even with Nistune. Throw it away, fit a proper boost controller. Do not use more than about 12-13 psi on the stock turbo for fear of destroying it.

Do not wind up the boost too far even with the highflow turbo fitted, because the stock injectors are only good for maybe 220rwkW. Maybe more, maybe less.

Buy the Walbro E85 fuel pump.

  • Like 1

Hi, I count not more highly recommend a HKS GT-RS turbo kit for the RB25det. Its my favourite turbo by far - very responsive, plenty of power, not too expensive, quality Japanese system, bolt on kit, neat, the list goes on. Well spent money!

The path to power can be expensive and you might find yourself spending twice or three times on specific components unless well thought out.

Common question - identify your power/performance target. That's going to dictate what bits are needed, and the various supporting components.

Sub 300hp/225kW and things are relatively easy, plus the car will be more useable for a number of your planned disciplines.

GTS Boy is on the money. Up to that point, forget injectors. Do the pump and direct wiring mod though. Go for Hypergear turbo, run on pump 98, that will get you a decent upgrade for much cheaper than a GTRS kit. Then start putting money aside for a decent clutch.

If the goal is going to be 350+ hp, just do a clutch straight up and keep putting money away for an inevitably bigger turbo than highflow, plus pump, wiring mod, and injectors. At that point you would just size for E85 flow capable units, and make a decision about whether you want to burn alcohol and tune to suit.

280-300hp is relatively finance-friendly, surprisingly quick, and useable power. There are a couple of good threads about where guys have focused on suspension/steering/brakes/tyres/diff but stayed with near stock power. Much smarter move, wish I had gone that path a few years back and left engine upgrades to later on the list.

No point having oodles of power when it's just frying tyres and spinning off the track.. second time round with the shit box and so far it has been all handling mods, it still runs the stock turbo (for the next few weeks lol).

I'm sure a properly setup R33 with only 200kW from a stock turbo will run 1m10s around Wakefield park easily, than something that has 300kW+ with just your run of the mill ling long coilovers

Fit the boost controller and Nistune and run 10psi. Then as above spend money on suspension, tyres brakes and time making the car lighter. A guy over here has been developing a street legal track car and is doing good times with the stock turbo after concentrating on brakes and handling and making the car lighter.

I'd go a Hypergear highflow with Nistune. One of the moderate high-flow options with internal gate. You'll need the Blitz SBC - it is a good boost controller. Nistune does NOT control boost.

What power level do you want. There are pros and cons with bigger turbos. Something around 240-250rwkw is pretty sweet.

E85 adds very close to 10% of power and some response. Up to you if you think it's worth the extra tuning cost/larger injectors, reduced range (300km per tank) and reduced number of fill-up spots.

I've got ~235wkw from:

AX53B70 turbo

Nistune

Blitz ID3 boost controller

S15 injectors

FMIC, dump/exhaust, big 100 cell cat, etc

all suspension done, some bushes, strut mount, etc

595RSR tyres

A GREAT daily but f I did it again now I'd probably start with a GT30 0.82 internal gate and E85 with bigger injectors and good local coilovers. BUT that's because I have another car as a daily.

Edited by simpletool

I think just about anything can crack a 1'10 @ wakie with a bit of practice and a good set of tyres..

the only time an r33 needs a heap of suspension mods is when they have big power to put down and traction is an issue...A low power say 200-220kw r33 doesn't need much more than some decent coilovers and good brakes/tyres to run fast...

Get coilovers, replace all the bushes, buy front castor rods, rear camber arms, install a HICAS lock bar, fit subframes bushes, get a 1/1.5/2way LSD, get a bucket seat..

Beats the hell out of loads of power.

  • Like 1

See the only mods i have is some bilsteins shocks, braided brake lines, good fluid, a hicas lock bar and some wornout old r-spec dunlops...yep that's it.stock bushes ,stock arms,stock diff and stock brakes

.Its not ideal but I Reckon I could of easy got a 1:10 with a little more practice, i got 1:15 or something on like my second lap out before going off the main straight and being chicken shit cause I needed the car to drive me home..

oh yeah I have 300kws too...

Nothing beats a whole Lot of power. ;)

Though I do agree with you its not needed for good times ,especially at wakie...but power is just so easily attainable on a 33...I dont think alot of suspension mods are needed either ,if you are on a budget weight reduction and good semi slick tyres is a great place to start

But to each his own and more than one way to skin a cat and all that.

+1 for this.

if you are considering E85 in the future then this is the pump for you. The 255 is okay but if you switch to e85 on a highflow you will need the big pump.

as far as turbo or injector upgrade. I would actually suggest saving a bit longer and doing both. A hypergear hiflow or a brand new turbo from hypergear + a set of injectors and a fuel pump before tuning that nistune ECU along with the Z32 AFM and a metal intake pipe will net you a very responsive 300rwkw +. If this is too much power for you simply turn boost down a bit. The JECS highflowed injectors from FIVEO will do the trick, they are pretty average injectors and I'm not really happy with them for street use but they will be fine for a mostly track car.

This is expensive, but cheaper than tuning more than once.

edit: didn't realise you still need a FMIC and turbo back 3" minimum to fully maximise a new turbo

Edited by Blackkers

my honest opinion to you would be to get a high flow turbo and a set if injectors and tune the car properly with the ecu and boost controller that you currently have.

you cannot use the stock solinoid, they can be used on a aftermarket ecu but not with a nistune but you have your aftermarket boost controller available anyway.

e85 is not going to do you much good this early imho.

I suggest a set of 740cc + injectors so LATER you can always do the switch to e85 without replacing them.

Doing the highflow and injector upgrade (make sure the fuel pump is good enough, a walbro 255lph should be enough) should net you around 250kw at the wheels which is a decent amount of power and lots of room to improve if you go to e85 later if it is required.

you CAN skip the injector upgrade and tune the car to around 230 235 rwkw which might be all you are looking for anyway?

I would go for this option because you will get more power with a high flow on pump gas then you will with a stock turbo on e85, also the stock turbo on r33's are getting pretty old these days and it could grenade at any time.

good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
×
×
  • Create New...