Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What about the heat when spot welding the clamps like above?

Sorry but I think thats a bit overkill. My clamps have held 30psi no problems and only half my pipes have beads on them.

What about the heat? Yes the spot welder does heat the material when its welded, but it doesn't distort the clamp. They look a lot more "factory" than a big agricultural hose clamp too IMO.

I've found that its not only internal pressure that blows hoses off. Its also on a quick drop back on the throttle where the bov's don't open enough to release the pressure. I'd estimate a 50psi spike can happen easily under those circumstances.

I think that provided it looks neat, there is no such thing as too much overkill. Most modifications done to improve cars performance often results in a decrease in reliability.

Edited by GTRNUR

Certainly overkill for most but that's definitely using the ol grey matter to overcome the pipes popping off under pressure - thanks

( the spot welding could be done off the car)

As for the question of clamp size you will need to measure.

I meant the heat affecting the silicone/rubber hose rather then the clamp.

It's probably not an issue but theres always a chance

My old clamps were a bit better then the ones I have now, they were a bit thinner but still the same design

OLD:

2012-01-14151530.jpg

NEW:

20140119_103103_zpsxzhyoh8s.jpg

Realisticly as long as the joiners and pipework are nice and clean then you shouldnt have to many issues. I just like the T-bolt clamps because they grip a bit tighter. I have stainless pipes so distorting the pipework isnt a big issue for me

Linking the clamps as previously stated is a good idea. If your going to go to the trouble of beading/barbing pipe connections, why not go that one step further while its all apart & weld on bosses on each connection, fabricate brackets & bolt the pipe connections together, then you will never have them blow off again....

  • 5 months later...

Are you referring to this? What do you mean by putting a bead on the pipe?

No this:

"As for the question of clamp size you will need to measure.." .posted 22/01/2014

Are you really forgetful or have you been drinking? Read the whole thread again in the morning.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
    • Yeah I spent close to a year finding one. I was even tempted to buy a RB25DE N/A head and port it out. That latter option, could still be an option.
×
×
  • Create New...