Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think you might be surprised as to how much difference there is between the two gearboxes. Don't forget the S15 has a turbo, so the torque output is pretty high.

Nevertheless, I would vote for the Z car box over the S15 box. I mean, people with S15s were famously replacing the 6 speeders with 5 speeders because the little SR20 5 speeder was stronger.

I think you might be surprised as to how much difference there is between the two gearboxes. Don't forget the S15 has a turbo, so the torque output is pretty high.

Nevertheless, I would vote for the Z car box over the S15 box. I mean, people with S15s were famously replacing the 6 speeders with 5 speeders because the little SR20 5 speeder was stronger.

Maybe, I am not really familiar with the s15 boxes. But my observations have always been that gearboxes suffer the most stress and damage when they are suddenly shocked with lots of torque in a small space of time. The sr20 engine doesn't really fit into this category, even with a turbo. Sure torque output on an turbo s15 can be high, but its usually up high and once the clutch engages and everything starts building momentum the stress on components is much more linear and manageable.

Driving like an idiot is not accounted for of-course. That's why you get lots of broken drive train components and mounts because people are dumping the clutch on wide after-market wheels with grippy tires and high output engines on cars that were never designed to handle that kind of abuse.

Edited by sonicz

Will a 350z box Bolton the R34gtt though also are they any stronger than Rb25 boxes. Could be a good mod for economy and possibly higher speeds.

And no it won't bolt on. Assuming that they are common with the big frame Nissan 5 speeders (big assumption, almost certainly wrong), you have to build up a box using appropriate front and rear halves. Otherwise you're into the territory of using adapter plates. I'm pretty sure that this is how it has to be done. Plenty of VQ into R chassis conversions using the original R chassis gearbox have been documented with adapter plates, and I don't think I've ever heard of someone Frankensteining two halves of the different gearboxes together.

Frankensteining can be done with VG gearboxes, because only the bellhousing half of the box is different.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...