Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For cam timing to be an issue it would have to be a few teeth out, and that is easy checked, and given they have done it three or more times it would have surely been found, a couple of deg won't cause this which is what skimming the head/block would cause is only a couple of deg, even though it does sound like the exhaust cam timing, where the cams put in the right way around, obviously they are or the CAS wouldn't go in

My 32 has the cams adjusted over 10deg each way with no issues

Were all the sharp edges left from skimming head/block removed from both

When you dropped the exhaust on the dyno where did it get dropped from

What changed from before car was stolen and after getting it going again, cause if it was not having this issue before and is now then its clearly something that has been changed

What coils did you replace the melted ones with, did you change the coil loom and igniter as well

Try the CAS

What about the cooling system, if its the radiator that was on the car when the engine blew then could it be partially blocked and not flowing enough..

I know when mine was starting to overheat it would start pinging.

I had a problem where a alternator caused weird problems as ecu and presumably. Fuel pump not getting enough power causing havoc , check that coil pack harness and any other wiring that may have been melted curiously what does the nisstune log temps at when this happens?

For cam timing to be an issue it would have to be a few teeth out, and that is easy checked, and given they have done it three or more times it would have surely been found, a couple of deg won't cause this which is what skimming the head/block would cause is only a couple of deg, even though it does sound like the exhaust cam timing, where the cams put in the right way around, obviously they are or the CAS wouldn't go in

My 32 has the cams adjusted over 10deg each way with no issues

Were all the sharp edges left from skimming head/block removed from both

When you dropped the exhaust on the dyno where did it get dropped from

What changed from before car was stolen and after getting it going again, cause if it was not having this issue before and is now then its clearly something that has been changed

What coils did you replace the melted ones with, did you change the coil loom and igniter as well

Try the CAS

Not sure, Tuner dropped the exhaust

But my cat is a straight 3 inch pipe

Alot of the electical wiring remins from the overheated stolen car

Coils were replaced with new genuine nissan coils. Coil pack loom was taken from the new donor engine

We have a spare CAS so can test that

What about the cooling system, if its the radiator that was on the car when the engine blew then could it be partially blocked and not flowing enough..

I know when mine was starting to overheat it would start pinging.

Cooling system is fine, new 55?mm radiator when the engine was rebuild. Water temps stay quite cool on street and track

Alternator was my next guess, what about the earth straps from motor the chassis, where they all put back on

I had a problem where a alternator caused weird problems as ecu and presumably. Fuel pump not getting enough power causing havoc , check that coil pack harness and any other wiring that may have been melted curiously what does the nisstune log temps at when this happens?

Not sure, but when the pretty sure scotty checked fuel pump voltages when he put in the new one and all was ok

probably the heater core lol

Lol Leeroy, I heard your car was falsely accused of cam timing issues from a reputable workshop :/

Fuel pump. Too close to bottom of tank can do it too, did u take the stock dampner off or leave it attached?

Don't think it will be the fuel pump

Last year on the ss2 it was running an old walbro fuel pump and still had the issue

Anyways, no one has had a chance to touch the car since the tune as I am busy most weekdays, so will be good to run over a few things over the coming weekends to resolve the issue. It's always good to get some brainstorming ideas

JJR dump big enough for 3582?

Using a catch can or recirculating blow by?

PCV valve stuck open?

hot spots created by the shape of the pistons?

loose the air box

the cylinders 3 and 4 could be getting hit with oil leading to det?

This case sounds similar to Hanaldo's issues with top end, both 34's too.

Edited by AngryRB

Does ANYBODY out there have the standard OEM camshaft timing specifications?

IO/IC/EO/EC & LSA for advertised AND @.050" specs??

If it helps, RB25DET ~ Solid type ~ Cam Duration (IN) 236° ~ Cam Duration (EX) 232° ~ Cam Lift (IN) 8.40mm ~ Cam Lift (EX) 8.70mm ~ Pre-Set Valve timing (IN) 119° ~ Pre-Set Valve timing (EX) 115° ~ NVCS Range (rpm) Below 5400.

Lol Leeroy, I heard your car was falsely accused of cam timing issues from a reputable workshop :/

indeed. but the car wasn't running well and was dialled using a spec card in Japanese.

Using a catch can or recirculating blow by?

PCV valve stuck open?

loose the air box

the cylinders 3 and 4 could be getting hit with oil leading to det?

whilst these ideas are a stab in the dark (I think the issue would be different if these were the cause), they are easy to suss out.

look into the fumes put out when hitting the wall (oil, fuel, blow-by)

block PVC with a clamp or something.

remove air box/filter (since its hot today could force air via a fan if working at home)

could put a piece of paper or cardboard behind exhaust and see if it's spitting anything chunky (your paint is dark so hard to see)

just quick easy things to rule out some ideas

The cooling system was bleed properly yeah, cause if there is a air pocket in the head above the combustion chamber it will creat a hot spot

No cat and straight through exhaust will create no problems, it's usually the cat that creates this kind off issues

Just FYI in relation to cam timing

Dial indicator was used to determine true top dead centre. Not the best picture but is evident the cam timing is not issue

1557617_798348673512827_224984793_n.jpg


Were all the sharp edges left from skimming head/block removed from both

Yeah all sharp edges and burrs were removed in machining process

my uneducated logic tells me to check fuel pressure, air temp before and after IC, then exhaust temp, given you have already checked base and cam timing and injector flow.

Fuel pressure will be checked once the car is running but high on the list

What size cooler piping are you using?

Any oil inside you cooler from your old blown engine ?

I would say its the return flow intercooler as your in the 300kw area now

My brother had a similar problem in his 180sx

Return flow cooler would refuse to make over 230rwkw no matter what turbo

Finally just chopped the battery tray and fitted anormal china fmic kit bam 20kw extra straight up after numerous tunes turbo swaps cam swaps and cam gears dialed in

Nothing made a big difference till I got rid of the return flow

Edited by hy_rpm

Apart from the fact he is using the stock cooler pipes in the engine bay, the HDI cooler and piping looks pretty good I thought. I have seen return flow coolers flow 400+ so I was pretty confident it would be fine... Joining the pipes for one run would prove that one I guess.

The cooler pipes are 3 inch from just after the stock rubbers exiting the engine bay.

Just realized on the weekend that I used my old CAS and coil pack loom from the destroyed engine

So have will put in spare ones I have

Just waiting on some gaskets coming this week before the car is running again + to do a fuel pressure test

Then off away to test if it fixes the issue

Want to pressure test the intake too, just to make sure there are no leaks? Only need to get the airbox off, and clamp it in where the afm goes.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to put in the fuel line Tony?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...