Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

Does anyone have any good info or guide to a RB26 vct build/setup.

Im currently building a RB30/26 here in Sweden and going for around 500whp on E85 with a high comp setup, and looking in to do a vct build if it's not at a NASA level of build..

Looking to make the engine as responsive as i can without going for at 3.4L kit..

//Jesse

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439457-rb26-vct-build/
Share on other sites

No, not the HKS system that costs more than my car, i have seen people using the rb25 stock nvcs on the rb26.

No one in Sweden have done it, and it's very little info about it on the web about the actual swap more than it can be done...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439457-rb26-vct-build/#findComment-7206287
Share on other sites

With an RB30 unless it's a total pig should smash 500HP on E85 with the right turbo/s.

Don't quote me on it but I read somewhere that even the HKS V Cam setup only increased performance marginally.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439457-rb26-vct-build/#findComment-7206732
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

and was some talk here about using 25 vct parts, I think elite racing/the dan was doing something if you want to read through

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/251820-got-over-400kw-atw/page-51

The Dan stoped responding my PM:S and did not give away any info (i said i was willing to buy all the parts from elite racing but doing the machine work on the head myself du to de freight cost sending my head from Sweden to AU and back again..

But still on square one so if anyone have any Good input on cam choice etc i would be happy..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439457-rb26-vct-build/#findComment-7384920
Share on other sites

VCT will only give you 20 degrees correct?

Vcam uses the VQ35 hydraulic actuator, usually giving 40 degrees, but Nismo made a modified 50 degree setup for it. If you can get that to work, as in not hit the valves on pistons, it will give some pretty good midrange gains over VCT I imagine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439457-rb26-vct-build/#findComment-7388912
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...