Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got an Evo 5, i would ask someone on the evo forum but im not a member and you guy

have always been helpful when i had my skyrine.

So i only recently picked up on this, its not a loud squeal and i can barely notice it

when the engine is on (its does this when its also off). When i push in the blutch

it squeals and when i slowly let go of it just at the friction point it will make a

creaking noise also unoticable when driving.

Shifting is really smooth and gearbox is silent while driving, the car has stock exhaust

so i would pick up on noises whilst driving easily.

The sound is coming from the black arrow pointing to the back circle thing.

Magnus_Clutch_Master_Cylinder_Evo_x_inst

That long black thing is a slave cylinder. Is the sound coming 'from' there, or 'through' there? Maybe you're hearing a squeal from inside the gearbox?

Im pretty sure its not coming from the slave cylinder, i can only hear it coming from the hole leading into the gearbox.

Sounds like the clutch fork pivot point is dry. Peel the boot back and give it a quick squirt http://www.wuerth.co.th/homepage_en/product/product_HHS.html

Just make sure you dont get any on the clutch plate!

Sounds like the clutch fork pivot point is dry. Peel the boot back and give it a quick squirt http://www.wuerth.co.th/homepage_en/product/product_HHS.html

Just make sure you dont get any on the clutch plate!

^^ correct

had the same issue on my 7, used high temp lube spray from SCA

Awesome thanks for the advice, will give it a go soon this week and let you know how i went.

  • 2 weeks later...

bastards, all moving to the darkside :(

I drove a Mazda 3 MPS with just a remap, larger top mount, and a turbo back.. makes my R33 feel like a bucket of shit

Drove a mates Evo 8, made me want to burn my car lol

Lol same here.

I'm trying to convince a friend of mine into buying an MPS.

I drove one with 220kW at the front wheels.. makes full boost at 2800 rpm... and fries 3rd with KU31 tyres at the front.

They're amazing, the torque is just phenomenal !

To many dickheads own mazda 3 MPS' here. Think they are top shit. Still looks like a chicks car to me even if they are pretty quick

hhaahhaa go drive one and your thoughts will change

Oh im sure they are good to drive. But seriously, the guys that own them here are just dickheads. People have ruined the car. My girlfriend has a polo gti anyway, not as fast but nice to drive

FWD's arent really my thing lol

I'm looking at my next car, I kinda want a C250 (a C63 would be great but a bit out of my price range :) ) or a BMW 323i. I have toyed with the idea of getting a VF Commodore because it makes much more sense. But think I'd rather the BMW at the moment

Wow this is off topic now isnt it...............

FWD's arent really my thing lol

I'm looking at my next car, I kinda want a C250 (a C63 would be great but a bit out of my price range :) ) or a BMW 323i. I have toyed with the idea of getting a VF Commodore because it makes much more sense. But think I'd rather the BMW at the moment

Wow this is off topic now isnt it...............

Our age is showing :(

Yeah BMW 323 would be a great car, just sneak a turbo on it when the missus isn't looking. Should be loads of fun!

Eww don't get a bogandore! Rather a XR6T anyday of the week!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
  • Create New...