Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch in my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440963-proxy-kill-switch/
Share on other sites

Random, but my old VL had a screw you had to hold your finger on while turning the key. I can PM the location to you of where it was, probably shouldnt announce it on here

As for how it was done... I have no idea. Screw with a wire off to somewhere. Car came like that so never bothered to check it out. It didnt have an alarm so must have just been utilising the stock electrics etc. Not sure it would even be an option on the VL.

It let everything turn on but the starter

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch in my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

This looks like a handy device. It suggests putting it in the fuel pump line but you could use in a number of ways to disable the car:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=704435597

The reason I don't like that ^ is it's another remote that you need to carry around. And either you're going to put that on your keys, which ultimately defeats the purpose because most cars are stolen via the keys; or you need to have it separate to your keys, in which case where do you keep it?

I would prefer a completely separate device, and I don't care if it takes me 5 minutes to start my car every time I drive it. The harder it is for me to start the car, the harder it will be for any potential thieves.

Thats what I liked about mine. There was no need to carry anything extra, no button, was just (AFAIK) earthing out a circuit to enable the start circuit

It was probably just the earth side of the starter signal (from the key) to the screw so it had no earth till you put your hand on the screw and then on the key (grounded through the key switch) then the car would start. If you didnt know where the screw was, the car wouldnt start.

BUT this way you could still bridge the solenoid on the starter moter and get it going etc. So its not the best way to do it. But you might be able to do something similiar with the fuel pump circuit.

This is just an idea, not sure it would work in a skyline, and it might not be what you are looking for

Ive recently been thinking about putting a killswitch my stagea. Ive sat in the drivers seat and picked out 5 places I would look for one if I was to steal a car amd can't think of another convenient place to put it so im now thinking of a proximity sensor (like an rfid key tag amd a unit under the dash or similar wired up to the fuel pump). Has anyone done this or seen this done before? Also need it time delayed or run through the turbo timer. Does anyone know of a reputable alarm specialist in Adelaide that might be able to help out with putting my words into action? As I have a poor history of auto elecricianism.. Any help or guidance would be much appreciated :)

First things first, In the name of security, get rid of the turbo timer. They give thieving f#%ks the three wires needed to start your car!!!

In regards to kill switches, many years ago in a car I don't own anymore, I fitted one in the right hand air vent (between dash & drivers door) about 2 1\2" down the duct. It ment I had a 3" long thin bit of aluminum on my key ring. 3 attempts were made to steal it, but they never got it (it was a near mint XC Fairmont 378 stroker, top loader, 9" yada yada yada).

  • Like 1

The reason I don't like that ^ is it's another remote that you need to carry around. And either you're going to put that on your keys, which ultimately defeats the purpose because most cars are stolen via the keys; or you need to have it separate to your keys, in which case where do you keep it?

I would prefer a completely separate device, and I don't care if it takes me 5 minutes to start my car every time I drive it. The harder it is for me to start the car, the harder it will be for any potential thieves.

the tag can be replaced by smartphone, it it acts like an rfid device

is it similar to what viper has..?

Edited by enka
  • 3 months later...

Forgot about this thread.. something im still really keen on..

First things first, In the name of security, get rid of the turbo timer. They give thieving f#%ks the three wires needed to start your car!!!

Noted and have since done so.

you are really talking a custom solution. forget traditional car audio shops..

Ill have a hunt around for specialist I s'pose

As far as 'another remote', im imagining something like a supercheap club keytag sized myki thing that when within five meters of a receiver in cabin turns the immobilizer off. Start car like usual. Outside the radius, immobilizer on.

key pass over a sensor behind the dash

this could work Edited by c34Florry

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...