Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm looking to install a few gauges in my 180sx for reliability. The car will mostly be used for track events.

What gauges do you recommend I install? I plan on investing in decent quality ones that will feature some sort of alarm.

I'm thinking: oil pressure, fuel pressure and oil temp. Is this a good combination?

The stock temp gauge is a water temp gauge correct? Is this accurate? Do you require an aftermarket water temp gauge if you have an oil temp gauge?

Are there any other gauges worth installing? ETG? Volts? I want them all to have a use, they're not for show.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/
Share on other sites

Exhaust temp, water temp, oil temp would be good, if the oil pressure drops at the track you probably won't have time to react anyway. Most of these things can be logged on a race car motec/haltech setup, so little point having gauges, just a warning would perhaps do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7240015
Share on other sites

I track my car every now and I run a Defi link system. I have gauges for oil temp, water temp and boost. As scotty nm35 said by the time your oil pressure goes it will be too late anyways. The Defi's on the link unit like I have allows you to record and show your peaks as well as set at what temp/pressure it will flash a red light to warn you.

I also have a PFC handset so anything else I can't see can see on the hand controller if needed after a heat but obviously not during.

I haven't bothered running any more gauges yet but the advantage of the Defi link is that you can add more if needed, Similar to this below

I bought mine 2nd hand and with all the senders cost around $500, new they are around double that I would guess but you pay for what you get.

daisy.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7240029
Share on other sites

So oil pressure goes suddenly? Even a sensitive alarm wouldn't help?

What about fuel pressure? My last engine died because the fuel pump failed

If your smashing it at the track at high revs and all of a sudden you notice no pressure on your oil gauge its pretty much too late only takes a few sec at high rpm to starve the bearings, allthough it does help you see if before you start pumping the car if you have an unusual low oil pressure compared to normal which can alert you to investigate before giving the car a thrashing. Fuel pressure will help as you will constantly be able to check the condition of it and can tell if its starting to die.

Edited by boostn0199
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7241077
Share on other sites

You won't be looking at gauges while on the track, and low oil pressure warnings are a pain, as they go off any time the engine isn't running. If you can log oil pressure on the ecu it becomes much more useful, as you can see when it is perhaps surging around corners etc, and muck around with oil grades to change pressures.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7241080
Share on other sites

So oil pressure goes suddenly? Even a sensitive alarm wouldn't help?

What about fuel pressure? My last engine died because the fuel pump failed

Alarm is no good. If you have a Link or Vipec or Motec etc you can set them to kill the engine if parameters you have set are not met - e.g. oil pressure v revs or fuel pressure - provided you have the necessary sensors - ecu can react more quickly than you can.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7241096
Share on other sites

Alarm is no good. If you have a Link or Vipec or Motec etc you can set them to kill the engine if parameters you have set are not met - e.g. oil pressure v revs or fuel pressure - provided you have the necessary sensors - ecu can react more quickly than you can.

I didnt know you could get the G4 to kill the engine when certain peramters are out of range?

I havent played much with that side of mine, but I couldnt even work out how to get the ECT to bring up a check engine light when it goes over so many degrees lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7241196
Share on other sites

I was in your shoes before, here is what I found.

Go for Defi or Apexi EL2 if you want high quality gauges with adjustable warning/peak recall/replay functions. Apex EL2 is cheaper but some Defi models have audio warning as well as flashing LED warning. Apexi has flashing LED warning.

Another option is a data logger. Good example is Zeitronix. Basically you set warnings on your control unit and if any parameter is exceeded you'll see a flashing light that you can place anywhere on a dash. That system was cheaper then other data logging units and should cost you as much as a set of quality gauges.

Here's my thoughts on gauges.

1. Boost/vacuum gauge. Definitely need one. Shows you how turbo is performing. Helps to spot boost leaks, boost creep, low engine compression.

2. Oil temp. It takes much longer for the oil to get to the operating temp then for the water. Usually 15-18 mins. Oil temp is better indicator of when the engine is warm enough for hard use. Also when oil temps exceed 110C it is probably time to slow down as 40 weight oil is starting to lose its qualities past this temp. Don't forget it is 110C sump temp, it is much higher at the bearing.

If you are missing 1 liter of oil your temps will be higher then normal, while your oil pressure will be almost the same. It is important to look at your oil and water temps because overheated engines are more likely to detonate.

So oil temp tells when it is safe to boost it and when it is time to slow down.

3. Water temp. Your stock water temp shows cold/normal/overheat. Most people I met at the track pay attention to Water temp. If you overheat your cooling system you may start blowing hoses and loosing coolant. You may have bubbles in the system and suddenly push coolant. Typically people slow down once it goes past 105C on a basic set up. Your stock gauge is still at a "normal" position and is hard to see anyway.

Most people I know that go on a track pay close attention to Water Temp and Oil Temp gauges.

4. Wideband AFR. When your pump failed your AFR was lean and then your engine was gone. You can try "Fail Safe" AFR gauge from AEM if you don't have Link G4 or similar.

If you are running aftermarket computer that has adjustable warnings (tables) like Link 4G this is a very good gauge to save your engine next time you fuel pump goes. If you connect this gauge to Link and set some parameters for example IF THROTTLE IS AT WOT and RPM IS >4000 and AFR is > 12.4 = IGNITION CUT (I think it switches rev limiter on in real life)

I think this is better then fuel pressure at a regulator since it will cover more potentially risky situations where you can lean out and blow your engine. Injector problems, wastegate hose problems etc.

You can also spot potential boost/vacuum leaks with AFR when it goes rich.

Unfortunately you can not have AFR gauge with flashing warning light. It is just the way they work.

5. Oil press. I agree with posts above. It is hard to justify when you have oil temp. The only real use is you can guess when it is time to change the oil. Remember when you track your car oil degrades much faster then usual 5000km road use.

6. EGT. Most tuners I've spoken to don't recommend it. High and low readings can mean anything sometimes. You can be leaning out and still have normal EGT.

7. Fuel press. I still prefer AFR. But if you don't run aftermarket ECU like Link 4G. You better put this gauge (or AFR gauge) where you can see it. Pumps usually fail fast.

So I think either go with good racing data logger system. I think Zeitronix is one of the affordable systems or get Boost, Water temp, Oil temp and some wideband AFR set up either connected to the ECU or stand alone Fail Safe AEM gauge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7241735
Share on other sites

^^ None of which you will ever look at while driving on track. Road would be a different story. If you can't log it and replay it later you will hardly use it, other than warning functions, then the ecu usually just goes into limp mode if setup correctly, as the race cars I work on do.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7241780
Share on other sites

It depends on a track use. When drifting there is always a straight where you can take a quick glance at temps

You can look at temps and warnings. You can't look at Boost, Fuel press, EGT, AFR and Oil press on a track because they keep moving

every second.

AFR should have some fail safe set up or connected to the ECU.

.

Data logger is more advanced set up for track only car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7241821
Share on other sites

Come on dude, typing it into Google would have answered the question instantly. Surely that's the better option.

Give it a go. It's free.

Hahahahahha I did mate I did. One thing I did not understand, is that when you log certain parameters you will be notified when there has been a breach as such but that would be too late. I couldnt ascertain whether datalogging allows you to monitor temps etc continuously, is that the case?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441108-gauges/#findComment-7248523
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have no hard data to report, but I have to say, having driven it to work and back all week, mostly on wet roads (and therefore mostly not able to contemplate anything too outrageous anywhere)..... it is real good. I turned the boost controller on, with duty cycle set to 10% (which may not be enough to actually increase the boost), and the start boost set to 15 psi. That should keep the gate unpressurised until at least 15 psi. And rolling at 80 in 5th, which is <2k rpm, going to WOT sees the MAP go +ve even before it crosses 2k and it has >5 psi by the time it hits 90 km/h. That's still <<2.5k rpm, so I think it's actually doing really well. Because of all the not-quite-ideal things that have been in place since the turbo first went on, it felt laggy. It's actually not. The response appears to be as good as you could hope for with a highflow.
    • Or just put in a 1JZ, and sell me the NEO head 😎
    • Oh, it's been done. You just run a wire out there and back. But they have been known to do coolant temp sensors, MAP sensors, etc. They're not silly (at Regency Park) and know what's what with all the different cars.
    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
×
×
  • Create New...