Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after bit more info and feedback re: quaife rear diff on the gtr, anyone running one of these yet?

not sure if its directly swap jobbie, unlike nismo items that require half shafts etc

who here is running one?

already had great things about the front but for the rears not sure if its better than nismo 1.5 option

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/441222-quaife-rear-diff/
Share on other sites

Hey Nesh, to have a chat with Terry at Award about rebuilding your standard diff tighter, that's the easiest and most likely cheapest way for pretty much the same result

I don't know about the rear diff but the quaife front diff is a gear résistance limo and doesn't 100% full lock which is what makes it so good for the front where you want the back it to full lock on acceleration

  • Like 1

bought front quaife diff, was chatting with owner of jjr, he swapped from nismo 1.5 to quaife rear, said difference was chalk n cheese, few other 32 gtr including donut king r35 has it in the rear, no chatter unlike nismo, maintenance free, lifetime warranty etc

has me leaning towards the quaife rear

bought front quaife diff, was chatting with owner of jjr, he swapped from nismo 1.5 to quaife rear, said difference was chalk n cheese, few other 32 gtr including donut king r35 has it in the rear, no chatter unlike nismo, maintenance free, lifetime warranty etc

has me leaning towards the quaife rear

When doing my rear I was tossing up between the quaife and the Nismo GT pro. I went the Nismo because the Quaife in the rear was just released and there was no feedback around, despite how good it was up the front.

The Nismo, on medium is way too much, I need to back it off and to get back that front drive that the quaife gave prob need to throw some extra friction plates into the transfer case. The Nismo (Atleast on medium) is one agro mofo.

How the quaife would go as a rear, it won't be a bad thing, may be super special but there isn't many people running one as they are so new.

Go drive an R34 (GTR). Nothing new there. Helical is helical.

Michael, you have both cars, you notice any difference hopping from one car to the other

the other thing to suss out is if quaife requires half shafts like the nismo or other mods

Michael, you have both cars, you notice any difference hopping from one car to the other

the other thing to suss out is if quaife requires half shafts like the nismo or other mods

Yeah, their two completely different cars to drive on the edge is stock form, as far as drive line is concerned that is, the 34 doesn't always spin both back tyres in the middle of a turn unless pushed very hard making it a bit unpredictable and then by the time you've got them spinning the front has kicked in already pulling you straight, the 32 is the oppersite, in a straight line the 34 has sooo much more initial grip, but most of that is the transfer case being preloaded in the 34

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=WpQETVmmS7w

At 1.15mins is an example of me pushing hard enough then 5secs later me pushing a bit to hard

I haven't punted it yet with the quaife in the front fitted

I have a spare R32 diff and new R34 gearing which I'm going to but in the rebuilt 32 diff and then jam it in the 34

pretty much in the same situation as OP..

option 1: rebuilt kit for r200 (250$ + was told about 400$ to rebuilt/retight the diff) should be tighter but not overly tight as a Nismo GT. no worries about bolt-on

option 2: buy a quaife because maintenance free, less chatter, drive smoothly but would still like to know if it's bolt-on affair.

option3: Go for a carbon diff ( most likely used, seen some from 600-1000), heard they were smoother, less maintenance and drive smoother than regular metal lsd.

Well I have just purchased a quaife rear LSD.

Pretty certain it will need modification 'as early R32 cars will require the stronger later driveshaft flanges to use this' whatever that means.

correct, emailed Tim @ SVS and he confirmed using later model half shafts which are stronger as it has larger internal spine size, not a problem if your car is already late model 32 or 33/34 and non v-spec, straight bolt-on

Well I have just purchased a quaife rear LSD.

Pretty certain it will need modification 'as early R32 cars will require the stronger later driveshaft flanges to use this' whatever that means.

Yes I just picked one up too... so I got the front and rear! In a R33 GTR however.

nice. When you did the front one how did that compare to standard setup?

The front one is right next to my foot still under my desk at work soon to be joined by the rear one! Slow build man, you will find out before me fortunately for you...

I think we got the last ones before the price rise too! :)

The front one is right next to my foot still under my desk at work soon to be joined by the rear one! Slow build man, you will find out before me fortunately for you...

I think we got the last ones before the price rise too! :)

Lol I know that feeling having performance parts under the desk.

Yeah, that is BS re: price rise.

I really don't want to fork out almost $2K just for a diff when they are being sold for almost half that price in the states.

http://www.frsport.com/Quaife-QDF3L-ATB-Differential-Nissan-Skyline-GTR-R33-R34-front_p_29114.html

Just waiting upon some more diff bushes and new diff bearings and then will get it installed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome!  How long have you had it? And what colour is it?
    • "CAD" version 1.0 It will have a 15mm lip around the top for 6 × 5 or 6mm nutserts and fixtures (two on each of the three straight edges), and some pinch weld on any exposed edges, it has three mounting points, one of the power steering reservoir bolts, and two on the rad support, my 120mm hole saw will make short work of hole for the silicone joiner, with ample room for some pinch weld  I've also got enough Carbuilders "peel and stick" heat shield to cover the outside of it at the coolant expansion tank and on the engine side, as pictured, and internally on the lid and where the fuse box is, I've also got some thin, about 3mm, black 3M single sided sticky foam stuff that was left over after sealing some door drafts at home to help seal the lid As for the shape, it "sort of" matches the shape of the fuse box, so shouldn't look to "out of place" The lower area and hole for the intake will need pinch weld with a balloon on it to fully seal the hole and bottom of it, that will happen after it has been fabricated so I know exactly what size is required  Filter service has been trialed,  and so far it was a simple process  Just need to get some alloy, and then head into work to use the guillotine and break press in the workshop Hopefully it should be sorted in a week or two Guestimated outlay will be under a $50 for the stuff I don't have on hand (alloy, 6mm nutserts, the pinch weld, and wrinkle paint) Disclaimer: That's what the "voices in my head" are telling me how the filter box should end up getting done......lets see if they know what they are talking about  
    • Have been polishing up the trailer rims as they had been sitting in the shed for a few years and are really in need of some love. This was after a couple of passes with chrome polish - coming up quite well ✅ .
    • Welcome aboard! Is your Skyline auto or manual? I'm assuming manual. Does it have any mods done yet?
    • Hey mate, the brown and grey plugs would usually go to the TPS, brown one goes on the bottom connector and grey is the top but isn't used unless the car is auto, your TPS looks different to mine though I've got a series 2 engine.
×
×
  • Create New...