Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can get an e39 m5 for around 50k

Would be my pick. But 11-12 year old now

As Drew recommends, we've been tempted now and again to switch across to the E39 M5.

It needs to be low Kms to feel sure that you can sell it easily later on, as you Bobby concur.

P1050315_zpse8da09d1.jpg

We bought this 530i Individual (2003 model) for $28K back in 2009 with only 48,000Km.

It's now done 79,000Km for an 11 yr old car. We decided to keep it for a while yet.

You're welcome to test drive her (without being considered a tyrekicker).

looking at the inevitable time-consuming/expenses regarding Direct Injection, it really narrows your choice down (or at least defines what year/model you get). Lot of unhappy chappys with RS4's and mercedes.

personally... I'd get a pulsar :P

-1 to MPS. Cobb tune and exhaust will push 160fwkws. they claim 190 at the flywheel from factory...

but would do some reading up on the newer volvos.

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Volvo-S60-2011/AGC-AD-15268958/?Cr=0&sdmvc=1

wont need diff due to AWD, but exhaust and flash tune would make more exciting.

Tez, back off, the N1 is mine.

Bobby, get some Audi love on man, they are great cars and the S4's are big value for money, stick a set of pipes on and pull chicks.

  • Like 1

Thanks guys, appreciate all the help.

Not sure a Focus is for me. Great cars, but maybe a little more for someone in their mid to late 20's. Just my view.

Was after something a little more luxuirous, hence the V36.

Go test drive one and I'm fairly certain you'll change your tune.

Put a fully specc'ed (and for $50 you can tick every box) Focus ST against any 10+ year old Beemer or Audi, and the Focus will kick the shit out of it in every way.

Go test drive one and I'm fairly certain you'll change your tune.

Put a fully specc'ed (and for $50 you can tick every box) Focus ST against any 10+ year old Beemer or Audi, and the Focus will kick the shit out of it in every way.

Hate to say that I reckon the ST was quicker in the twisties than my modded R32 GTR. It has more useable power down low due to being lighter. It surprised the hell outta me, being a RWD 6 cyl traditionalist.
  • Like 1

I'll throw in another vote for the IS-F. I've seen 2008 models for less than $60K with less than 50000kms . Insurance is also pretty reasonable when compared to the Euros, roughly 20% cheaper for me. The MY10s are the ones to get as they have the proper LSD but they're still around the $70K mark.

S5s are going for $10-15K more for similar age/ks, definitely a stunning car but well short of the 400hp of an IS-F.

From what I've read IS-Fs have very few issues (the odd rattle mainly) where as most of the Euros I'd be reluctant to pick up unless it came with extended factory warranty.

The S5, 135i & 370Z would be my also rans.

then just put a Chevy badge on. instant reliability

I reckon a TRD sticker across the back window would make it more reliable AND better on fuel.

Is the Golf R going to be sold in Australia? It might sneak in under $50K new, and as long as you sell it before the warranty runs out you should be fine. 296hp, 4WD, 0-100 in 5.1, 4-door hatch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...