Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im looking into upgrading my r33 turbos to the nismo n1 kit (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-N1-Upgrade-Kit-R32-R33-GTR-RB26-RB26DETT-NISMO-/120514498456) link to N1 turbos on ebay.

if i do get this kit will it be safe to put in my gtr i dont have a N1 block will this matter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445570-n1-turbo-upgrade-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

^ what he said, and they have bush bearings and may well be old tech laggy wheels. Just go straight to -7s (aka R34 N1s) or -9s. Its a lot of work to change turbos and they make a big difference to how the motor runs, so if you skimp you'll regret it. Only other option would be to contact Hypergear to what he has to offer, but usually the cost of a proper rebuild/highflow is too close to the -7s so its just not worth it.

There's no difference between the blocks with respect to manifolds and mounting of turbos.

im looking into upgrading my r33 turbos to the nismo n1 kit (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-N1-Upgrade-Kit-R32-R33-GTR-RB26-RB26DETT-NISMO-/120514498456) link to N1 turbos on ebay.

if i do get this kit will it be safe to put in my gtr i dont have a N1 block will this matter.

... do yourself a favor and find a mechanic with plenty of gtr/skyline experience before you buy anything!

That kit is neither N1 nor Nismo however is a waste your money. As with everything in life you get what you pay for. What you're after is a set of direct bolt-on Garrett GT2860R-7s (AKA R34 N1). If you'd like some advice or a quote drop me a line.

  • 5 months later...

That kit is neither N1 nor Nismo however is a waste your money. As with everything in life you get what you pay for. What you're after is a set of direct bolt-on Garrett GT2860R-7s (AKA R34 N1). If you'd like some advice or a quote drop me a line.

Hey Kudos,

I've got a 33 gtr. I was planning on upgrading the stock turbo's to -7's or possibly -9's though I noticed you have the 2871r-10's. Do you think these would be too small? I know there are plenty of threads on -5's vs 7's & 9's. Ultimately I'm trying to build the car for response and reliability. As guys who work on GTR's day in and out I was keen to know what you think the go would be??

Cheers

^ Do yourself a BIG favour - and research. -10s are the WORST possible selection you can make. Rubbish turbos, far too big.

. do yourself a favor and find a mechanic with plenty of gtr/skyline experience before you buy anything!

Totally agree.

$200 turbo "upgrades" forget it - it's $2200 for a set of -9s or -7s or don't bother spending the money.

The N1 / bush journal setups are 1980s design, lack performance that has been well and truly superseded by more modern turbos and the extra response, power and performance is worth the money.

Turbos are the most important part, don't skimp on them or regret it forever.

  • Like 1

Hi jnbR33, as R31Nismoid the GT2871R-10s aren't a great selection for the RB26 and for response the -7 or -9s are the best option with the -9s being the most popular these days by a country mile.

N1 'upgrades' don't really fit into the word 'upgrade' as it's almost a backward step using out-dated tech and the only average-at-best performance you get from them.

R34 N1s however, good upgrade - but they are a "-7" turbo anyway really, so just buy new and don't worry about it

depends really doesn't it? if you spend that money on the parts how much would 2 rebuilds cost to be installed and balanced by a turbo builder? $500-600? probably alot cheaper than 2 new turbo's?? i'm not saying you guys are wrong i'm just saying they might be a good option for someone on a budget.

depends really doesn't it? if you spend that money on the parts how much would 2 rebuilds cost to be installed and balanced by a turbo builder? $500-600? probably alot cheaper than 2 new turbo's?? i'm not saying you guys are wrong i'm just saying they might be a good option for someone on a budget.

Well the cost would be roughly $1000 (worst case of course) for two turbos by the time you buy the parts, send them off to be assembled/balanced.

So yeah it most certainly is cheaper... But they are soooo much laggier. We are talking laggier than a -5 turbo (capable of 400rwkw) but they will only make the power of a -9s (340rwkw).

That's not really a good option in anyones books to have all the lag without the power. Pretty hard to justify that being an 'upgrade'.

You'd be better off taking the chance with a 2nd hand set of -9s for $1200-$1400 and getting them inspected.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...