Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

#@Sick_R31 knows how to do it and where to get the shocks.

Yes, yes i do. 2 options

  1. Buy new strut/hinges from nissan. pm me your chassis and model number so i can get the part numbers for you and the cheapest place to get them from
  2. Fit aftermarket struts. Probably the cheaper option as new struts should be around the $30 mark each.
  • Like 1

Sick_R31: I really need some new shocks for my R33 to hold the GTR wing and boot up. Do these aftermarket shocks come with the brackets? I've looked into the genuine ones but they are about $100 or so each

Let me know if you can help :)

Sick_R31: I really need some new shocks for my R33 to hold the GTR wing and boot up. Do these aftermarket shocks come with the brackets? I've looked into the genuine ones but they are about $100 or so each

Let me know if you can help :)

I don't remember the exact fitting method but I know they don't come with the brackets. You drill out the upper mount of the factory strut and the new one screws in through that hole.

Crazy! I was about to make a new thread and found this started yesterday when my boot decided to split my head open!

I am around Hendra and keen to get the maniacal boot fixed before it breaks my neck! I was putting groceries in the boot and the back end was on a slight decline...BAM! Stabbed in the back of my head for the first time by the car I have owned since January 1998

I am lazy(too busy) and would just like to replace the genuine ones with the like kind.

GTS-T R33 Coupe - July 94 build

I am lazy(too busy) and would just like to replace the genuine ones with the like kind.

GTS-T R33 Coupe - July 94 build

I need the chassis and model number, fast lists 8 different part numbers

Sick_R31: I really need some new shocks for my R33 to hold the GTR wing and boot up. Do these aftermarket shocks come with the brackets? I've looked into the genuine ones but they are about $100 or so each

Let me know if you can help :)

The aftermarket ones don't come with brackets, minor modification is required to fit them.

Genuine ones are $118 each plus postage through http://www.amayama.com

Am I the only person with original boot struts that still work?

They work right up until your boot decides to go all guillotine on your head

got brand new ones for the stagea bonnet from http://gasstrutguys.com.au/

$44 for the set posted to Brisbane

Just gave them measurements and took a photo of the ends 3 days later had new struts! Highly recommended

  • 2 weeks later...

Am I the only person with original boot struts that still work?

Mine work just fine thank you!!! As long as I am on a flat surface or I reverse in my driveway that has an inclination of about 15 degrees LOL

Bitch has turned into a Guillotine on a declining angle!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...