Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I watched some of your vids, it looks like way more fun!

you probably can answer this for me, how to get rid of the slip light coming on? I can turn traction control off but what is the slip light trying to do when it flashes on?

Haha, my slip light is on permanently ;P

They way it works is when traction control is enabled, when it activates to prevent the car spinning the wheels the SLIP light flashes. When you turn traction control off with the switch the TCS OFF light and the SLIP light will stay on.

Some people go to the effort of pulling the light out from behind the dash to stop it coming on. Others wire up little relays to reverse the way the light works. I just haven't bothered to do either lol.

Haha, my slip light is on permanently ;P

They way it works is when traction control is enabled, when it activates to prevent the car spinning the wheels the SLIP light flashes. When you turn traction control off with the switch the TCS OFF light and the SLIP light will stay on.

Some people go to the effort of pulling the light out from behind the dash to stop it coming on. Others wire up little relays to reverse the way the light works. I just haven't bothered to do either lol.

Haha, my slip light is on permanently ;P

They way it works is when traction control is enabled, when it activates to prevent the car spinning the wheels the SLIP light flashes. When you turn traction control off with the switch the TCS OFF light and the SLIP light will stay on.

Some people go to the effort of pulling the light out from behind the dash to stop it coming on. Others wire up little relays to reverse the way the light works. I just haven't bothered to do either lol.

ahhhh I see, thanks for that, I was gonna start pulling fuses lol

Nice start for your GTT, I enjoy reading the updates/pics.

As for boost controller, if you can get your hands on a greddy profec b or the newer but similar profec type s I would suggest either of those. I had a profec b for years and years very easy to you use with great accuracy.

Thanks guys, I will likely get that style of boost controller.

Update:

front pipe and test pipe put on today, got the rear diff serviced as well clear.png

I thought the car would be a lot louder but its very subtle still, which is great. The turbo spools up way faster then I imagined it would now lol, went through some gas to say the least clear.png

  • 1 month later...

Storage has started, but one last trip on the mountain for a good drive.

EBC and tuning won't happen until spring now....in the meantime Im thinking bigger injectors, MAF, and doing a hybrid turbo setup over winter.

20141113_152612_zps7225a450.jpg

Any shops make the hybrid turbo anymore? I couldn't find much when I searched...

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Jeez its been a very long time since I updated anything! I have been active with the car, but it didn't seen much driving until these past couple weeks.

Summer has hit us so the car is coming out for a couple months.

Most recently I took off my HKS Hi power Super Silent. I replaced it with a Blitz nur spec exhaust that I was lucky enough to find at auction! The car is so much louder now :)

As for other changes the boost controller and nistune board get installed in a couple weeks at a local tuning shop.

My wheel setup is changing now, bought some Enkei Nt03-m 18X9.5 +27 offset on all four corners. Will put some 235/40/18 on the fronts, and then 265/35/18 on the rears.

Old Setup, ran 20mm and 25mm hub centric spacers to make these fit and look great.

20150528_200233_zpscuknihff.jpg

Quick pics of the new setup, currently 265/35 tires on all the wheels, but they are all toast, getting new rubber next week.

Rear:

20150610_113731_zpsoyb3oqvl.jpg

Front:

20150610_115824_zpsjxjixgip.jpg

Whole car....cant see the rear wheel, looks like a spare tire haha

20150610_115847_zps164ee0s7.jpg

I am not going to upgrade the stock turbo yet, going to push it once the nistune board is in shortly.

Edited by 604JD
  • Like 2

Nistune went well :)

Got 258whp and 239wtq but I think that's pushing the stock turbo a bit to much, I believe our peak boost was 13.8 psi

Yesterday I was in 3rd gear with the pedal smashed and around 4,000-4,500rpm there was a sudden loss of power and boost....then it built power again after that a second later. I experienced this on one of our runs after about 3 hours on the dyno. We went to do some road pulls to test the load on the car and it happened, my tuner looked at some values and changed a couple things....and we also had a vacumn line blow off the manifold. Fixed everything and the car ran strong, but still it did the same thing a couple days later now.

Back to the shop tomorrow, going to dial down the boost on the stock turbo a bit and maybe make sure the fuel pump is keeping up etc. Hoepfully get the car back on the dyno and sorted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
×
×
  • Create New...