Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 122
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...

Just thought i'd post up now that i've joined the GTSS turbo club ;)

My GTR isn't all that modified but these turbo's are great! Spools up quicker than standard for sure and pulls much harder even on a lower boost level! No dyno or 1/4 mile figures as yet, but looking like i'll be hitting WSID 13th of july

Just thought i'd post up now that i've joined the GTSS turbo club :P

My GTR isn't all that modified but these turbo's are great! Spools up quicker than standard for sure and pulls much harder even on a lower boost level! No dyno or 1/4 mile figures as yet, but looking like i'll be hitting WSID 13th of july

Excellent - let me know how it goes. I'm looking at these as one option for myself - would really like some feedback.

Did you fit different dump pipes? Injectors to suit? etc?

Excellent - let me know how it goes. I'm looking at these as one option for myself - would really like some feedback.

Did you fit different dump pipes? Injectors to suit? etc?

Really looking forward to driving the car and getting some KM's on it with the new turbo set up :D

Yeh I did fit different dump pipes..a set of stainless MINES dumps. Still running stock injectors, pump, cooler. Other mods are power FC, full exhaust, clutch, cam gears and some pod filters.

Mmmmmm

I might just jump in here and say I've gone down the GT2560R bandwagon. Apparently they're 320hp, and im really curious to see how they go against these SS's.

My girlfriend is spewing when i told her how much im spending :D

Meh. Just tell her its cheaper than an RX7 :D

LW.

well, i ended up going with TWIN HKS 2835 52t turbos. being BB turbos they feel heaps stronger to the Group A N1's that i used to run. maxed out on injectors now :( 366awkw on 1.3bar with the new setup was impressive. but now jumping right in a going CP forgies, Rods, 272 with 10.2lift cams, hks fuel rail, 700cc injectors and new valves. im having trouble chasing down the valves, anyone know any places ? also need new rings on the forgies so im chasing them down too.

just wanting your opinions on my situation!

I have the stock set of turbos with all the usual mods, and am in the market for some new ones. now I can get a set of new r34 n1s for arround 3.5k.

from reading this thread I can see you have to get different dumps for the gt,ss set up, what about oil lines, water lines, manifolds ect.

Just wondering what sort of money the whole gt,ss set up has cost you guys and if they perform that much better than the n1s for the difference in price.

Keeping in mind that I am using the car as a daily driver and not a track car and small power differences wont be that critical.

what would you do?

Really looking forward to driving the car and getting some KM's on it with the new turbo set up ;)

Yeh I did fit different dump pipes..a set of stainless MINES dumps. Still running stock injectors, pump, cooler. Other mods are power FC, full exhaust, clutch, cam gears and some pod filters.

Where did you get the MINES dumps from and how much did you pay?

I am trying to locate some - or perhaps Tomei Dumps as I think they are similar.

I'm not convinced of the split pipe design at all.

Did you have to mate them to MINES front pipes? Or are most Front Pipes and Dumps interchangeable? (ie do MINES dumps match up ok with HKS Front Pipes in terms of flange and bore etc?)

just wanting your opinions on my situation!

I have the stock set of turbos with all the usual mods, and am in the market for some new ones. now I can get a set of new r34 n1s for arround 3.5k.

from reading this thread I can see you have to get different dumps for the gt,ss set up, what about oil lines, water lines, manifolds ect.

Just wondering what sort of money the whole gt,ss set up has cost you guys and if they perform that much better than the n1s for the difference in price.

Keeping in mind that I am using the car as a daily driver and not a track car and small power differences wont be that critical.

what would you do?

you don't HAVE to fit new dump pipes to run GT-SS. they are a direct replacement turbo. but if you are going to the trouble and expense of replacing turbos (either SS or N1) then I would say it will be worthwhile to replace the dumps at the same time. in fact it would be silly not to.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...