Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well it was a rainy day didn't stop at all, well not enough to even dry the track out but went out and had fun anyways managed to keep it on the black stuff and had no spins.

had about 8 little moments but was a great learning curve, not sure on time's ill have to go through the footage but didn't break any records :)

the car ran great all day, temps were spot on 80 water and 100 oil. didn't have to worry about tyres but got the brakes nice and toasty a couple of times as i was doing to many consecutive hot laps HAHA

might looking into some better exiting ducts for the oil coolers by chopping up the front guards.

here are a couple of pic's will get the footage up later.

post-83704-0-66029200-1434617024_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-12180000-1434617026_thumb.jpg

  • Like 4

Here is a little bit of footage nothing spectacular nor breaking any records but still good fun and a great learning curve

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpF5fz8aec4&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdip6Y_rwRY&feature=youtu.be

Well I finally got some time to work on the 7 yesterday, started by repairing the front bar fixing the hole they made for a tow point and making a mould of the drivers side combination lamp housing as it was cut out to make way for some air filters/duct's.

post-83704-0-36529800-1436164532_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-13274600-1436164537_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-79315300-1436164544_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-45687500-1436164550_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-89701900-1436164558_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

and then the fun started cutting up the front bar...........

1st photo shows the stock hole on the right and the modified hole on the left
2nd photo shows the cut out's i made

3rd photo shows the 40mm gap i have enlarged it by

4th shows the oil cooler behind the cut out and the 5th shows with the piece put back in increasing the hole by 40mm

6th photo shows what it should look like once complete

post-83704-0-25113400-1436164666_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-17314100-1436164672_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-94957700-1436164684_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-06879200-1436164692_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-07989000-1436164874_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-08869200-1436165211_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Saturday arvo I finished off filling in with fibreglass and then a Mate and I spent majority of Sunday rubbing it back, had to refibreglass from the front as it had sunken in on one of the sections but otherwise looking good!!!.......... almost ready for highfill

post-83704-0-28572000-1437470725_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-01327900-1437470727_thumb.jpg

Yes it's going to be V mounted, was cheaper to buy this than even a core of the same size. so will just cut off the pipes and turn them around :)

ahh cool beans. Don't wait dat heat soak for the FD. Mazda messed up the cooling hardcore in the FD lol.

Well my pulley kit turned up on Friday so I could go ahead with fitting that, removing the air pump (5kg) and remove the center exhaust with the cat in it (13.8kg)
appon removing all the pulleys the only one that wasn't in the kit was the power steering idler pulley pulled it off to check it luckily I did as it still spun alright but sounded very dry, so i picked up a new one and pressed it in. Just waiting on a call the my straight pipe is ready for pick up.

then to move onto removing all the air pump pipes and block them all off with the emissions blanking of plates :)

post-83704-0-51343800-1438586633_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-77354700-1438586635_thumb.jpg

post-83704-0-31871800-1438586636_thumb.jpg

  • Like 3

its a very nice car and you're doing it justice, but fark i would not have the patience or determination to replace/repair so many poorly implemented items.

i would probably bin the whole front end and start from scratch.

thankfully, its not my car.

If I had of known it would be so much drama with the solenoids/twin turbo and all the money I wasted in getting it running, I probably would've bit the bullet and went single straight away but hay you learn as you go.

and doing things on a budget makes you think outside of the box. it'll all be worth it in the end :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...