Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is there a link to a detailed thread on the attessa system in the nm35s?

My thinking was its pretty much rwd untill the system senses traction being lost and activates the fwd.

After reading about the rpm diffrence between the break sensor mod while on the stop and go pedals, i wanted to check. Sure enough sat on about 2500rpm as suggested.

Though i did notice small tyre witness marks on the driveway, so tried again the next day with the "Sync" switched on and held it a little longer to be sure, again twin marks.

I would have though the attessa would have not allowed that to happen? Also, i have taken off quckly on loose gravel had had the back spin and step out slightly.

So any more info on the attessa side of things (other then wikkipedia) would be greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447319-attessa-question/
Share on other sites

Is there a link to a detailed thread on the attessa system in the nm35s?

My thinking was its pretty much rwd untill the system senses traction being lost and activates the fwd.

After reading about the rpm diffrence between the break sensor mod while on the stop and go pedals, i wanted to check. Sure enough sat on about 2500rpm as suggested.

Though i did notice small tyre witness marks on the driveway, so tried again the next day with the "Sync" switched on and held it a little longer to be sure, again twin marks.

I would have though the attessa would have not allowed that to happen? Also, i have taken off quckly on loose gravel had had the back spin and step out slightly.

So any more info on the attessa side of things (other then wikkipedia) would be greatly appreciated.

If you saw two black lines that would be different. Atessa reaction is not immediate. In fact R32 was quite slow. R33 (and Stagea) is quicker and R34 GTR is quicker still. The answer is in your second sentence - attessa senses traction being lost - it can't somehow anticipate it.

If you saw two black lines that would be different. Atessa reaction is not immediate. In fact R32 was quite slow. R33 (and Stagea) is quicker and R34 GTR is quicker still. The answer is in your second sentence - attessa senses traction being lost - it can't somehow anticipate it.

It does sort of anticipate it, by pushing some drive to the front wheels under hard acceleration, even if there is no slip. The biggest problem with the R32 setup is that its biased much too heavily to the rear. I have a cheapo ebay attessa tweaker in the GTR and it transforms the car. Also R32s also have no preload - ie no drive at all to the front under normal conditions. The R33 and later all send a little drive to the front all the time, which improves response, and is why you need to remove the front driveshaft if you're using a 2WD dyno. In an R32 you can just pull a fuse to use a 2WD dyno.

While we're talking attessa, do NM35s still require flatbed for towing like early attessas?

If you saw two black lines that would be different. Atessa reaction is not immediate. In fact R32 was quite slow. R33 (and Stagea) is quicker and R34 GTR is quicker still. The answer is in your second sentence - attessa senses traction being lost - it can't somehow anticipate it.

It does sort of anticipate it, by pushing some drive to the front wheels under hard acceleration, even if there is no slip. The biggest problem with the R32 setup is that its biased much too heavily to the rear. I have a cheapo ebay attessa tweaker in the GTR and it transforms the car. Also R32s also have no preload - ie no drive at all to the front under normal conditions. The R33 and later all send a little drive to the front all the time, which improves response, and is why you need to remove the front driveshaft if you're using a 2WD dyno. In an R32 you can just pull a fuse to use a 2WD dyno.

While we're talking attessa, do NM35s still require flatbed for towing like early attessas?

I have only ever flatbed towed the car. I wouldn't want to try due to the preload on the transfer case clutch though

I have a feeling the M35 electronic G sensor and Attessa computer is much quicker to respond than the earlier units.

So its more of a case of pecentage of power Vs breaking effect?

If theres a constant percentage of drive being sent to the front and you stand on the break and accelerator, is it just the fact that theres less power and larger breaks up front that allow the rears to turn?

My car breaks traction when my tyres are really cold or when the steep driveway is really wet or the combination and I cannot get up my driveway as the rear wheel is still spinning and I slide back down. This is at a low speed lets say 5km/h? Even with snow mode activated it struggles going up my driveway.

I can launch my car from 3500 or 2500? pissing down rain with the road flooding and not break traction.

My car also leaves chirp like marks when leaving my garage.

But, if going up a steep hill while raining and I floor it, I can feel the rear slip then the car straightens up then I know that attessa has corrected the slip.

  • 2 months later...

FWIW, as well as difference in front vs rear wheel speed from the ABS sensors, and longitudinal G force, they also have a TPS input.

so yep, it's pretty damn good at guessing when you might loose traction.

bloody amazing system for something designed on this

Classic-Games-The-Age-of-DOS-IBM-PC.jpg

FWIW, as well as difference in front vs rear wheel speed from the ABS sensors, and longitudinal G force, they also have a TPS input.

so yep, it's pretty damn good at guessing when you might loose traction.

bloody amazing system for something designed on this

Classic-Games-The-Age-of-DOS-IBM-PC.jpg

Yeah, I've watched my torque split gauge throw drive to the front whilst cornering, and encountering a dip; no loss of traction felt, but it is impressive in it's pre-emptive nature.

A wet road would likely have seen a loss of traction in that combination of conditions.

I have not ran part numbers on the nm35 systems, but from the looks of it they run an r34 pump and clutch packs. The only way to confirm would be to look at the g sensor.

If it is R34 data and programming it takes TPS, G sensor, wheel speed and the map sensor. Calculates over a matrix and runs variable prime pressures.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The spray cans were in the "Kiln" room whilst I was preping the parts,  so probably around 2 hours to get them warmed up, the kiln room has 3 small ovens running at 100°c, 3 medium sized ovens running 100°c, and the large one I used running at 80°c, the room itself was about 28°c, I also spent a bit of time taping up the parts in the room as well, and by the time I was done I would assume that the parts were around that 28°c As for power, I expect a couple of Killerwasps up high would be achievable with the current mods, I'm still running the MZR 2.0 intake and throttle body, and there is a slight mismatch with the 2.0 intake (smaller) and 2.5 intake ports (larger) on the head, this intake is matched and specifically designed to fix this issue with the ports mismatch, the throttle body is also a couple of mm larger, OEM is 65mm, the Bosch is 68mm In the end it will look "prettier" than the molded plastic thing that is the OEM MZR 2.0 intake As for the LSD, it's the OEM Torsen which works fine for what I use the car for, plus, basically no maintenance apart from the occasional oil change
    • I was at Tunehouse in Marrickville (great team over there really know their VR's) , and I spotted this Very clean R35.  
    • Mate , I have the same issue right now with the exhaust noise , if you can tell me what your local guy did , I'll talk to my guys and see if they can do the same. Power is good but it just too loud when put it down. 
    • The other trick I've found with wrinkle black is to put the can in hot water for a bit to warm the paint up, and to pre-heat whatever you're painting. It'll be interesting to see if you pick up any power with the intake, following with interest. Got a proper lsd for this?
×
×
  • Create New...