Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Actually I'm going to be going back to the factory CAS until I get the car tuned and a timing pickup gear designed for my setup. Call me impatient, but these things can wait until later and I'd rather not have complications on initial engine run-in. I'd personally like to see the differences that crank-based timing pickup makes regardless.

Still have lots to do and Redline shockproof is the best. Used it in all of my racecars so far...good to know! I'm saving my money for the R34 Nismo conversion. I like the fact that it will be all brand new components including driveshafts. This is still a majority street car that will handle some track days.

The head drain will work as a breather in reality so may still give a small benefit.

As for catch cans, if you run into trouble the Autech catch cans work well on the R. Same principle the Bathurst R32 Race GTR used back in the day. If you don't plumb back into the intake( as your running MAP) you will probably be fine anyway.

The factory CAS doesn't work well with Motec or Autronic, I can't comment on the Haltech. We run a custom Ref/Sync (Crank/Cam) setup on anything over 500hp. Be aware noisy signals could cause premature bearing failure. It's better/cleaner to trigger from the crank as it is not effected by timing belt harmonics.

Edited by BoostdR

The factory CAS doesn't work well with Motec or Autronic, I can't comment on the Haltech. We run a custom Ref/Sync (Crank/Cam) setup on anything over 500hp. Be aware noisy signals could cause premature bearing failure. It's better/cleaner to trigger from the crank as it is not effected by timing belt harmonics.

So I've read. like I said the CAS will be replaced prior to tuning. I already have Murrayis kit for the cam as well as the two Honeywell sensors, but his kit for the crank ended up not clearing my Tomei oil pump. I'll be ordering a trigger gear for my crank pulley and machining it prior to turning up any real boost or rpms. The factory CAS will only be to run the engine in for break-in and to put a few miles on it.

FYI... (while I'm keeping notes on my build)

I called Haltech.

The Haltech Platinum Pro (plug and play) for R32 can either use the factory CAS optical circuit OR use an AEM "24 and 1" trigger wheel in the CAS. The drop down menu selector for the trigger applies to the '24 and 1' setup. This setup would still retain the factory cam rpm "noise" due to the timing belt fluctuations.

OR...

You could use a hall trigger on the crank with a 12 tooth trigger wheel (or machine the crank balancer to have 12 slots) and this works as well with 24 and 1 setup due to the fact that the crank rotates 2x as fast as the cams (and 24 refers to cam rotation spots). you must use a Hall trigger or VR (reluctor) if you do this method (according to Haltech) and use either the AEM trigger wheel's '1' marker or the Murrayis single hall trigger for the "home" location on the camshaft.

In the software you can lock the timing and use a timing light to tell the ECU where to start timing AFTER the 'home' cam trigger is fired to get to base TDC.

Cool thread man keep the updates coming!

the only thing i might add... Clear timing covers go to shit really quick. When in the car and done i would paint it. Or you will be cleaning it fairly often.

Nice, I've had good results with haltech but only experience with sub 500hp and Oem cas. Be interested to hear how it goes. Does the haltech have a ref sync capture tool for analysing an oscilloscope style log? Would be good to obtain a before and after to see the change in noise.

Supposedly the data logs in high rpms (above 5k) show a drastic vibration of rpms (basically 900 rpm swings up and down). The higher the revs the more the swings...I do recall seeing a thread where this was datalogged clearly.

I do see merits of crank pickup vs. cam pickup for rpm for sure so I'm planning that and actually I found a GREAT spot for the honeywell sensor to bolt straight on yesterday, just didn't get to sort out a wheel yet. I am planning on designing / modifying something like motec's 12 tooth trigger wheel (may need to be larger diameter since the OD of the fluidampr harmonic balancer is 6.125").

as for the clear cover...yeah it's a novelty. I just figured something had to be chopped up to fit Murrayis setup and I didn't want to cut my stock one up since it's also powdercoated gold like the cam and top covers. This is kinda why I'm leaning back towards the AEM wheel in the CAS so I can run that again.

This website has been a great help. Thanks for the comments and feedback.

You should be able to use the 1 slot in the 24:1 CAS disk as your home signal and run a crank position sensor.

This means you can run a standard cam cover and CAS as well as the accuracy of a proper crank pick up (this is what I'll be doing).

Id also suggest you get whatever work you need to do to fit the crank sensor done now while the engine is out.... it's a severe PITA to remove an rb26!

You should be able to use the 1 slot in the 24:1 CAS disk as your home signal and run a crank position sensor.

This means you can run a standard cam cover and CAS as well as the accuracy of a proper crank pick up (this is what I'll be doing).

Id also suggest you get whatever work you need to do to fit the crank sensor done now while the engine is out.... it's a severe PITA to remove an rb26!

You clearly didn't see the pictures from yesterday on page 3! :) I left the crank bolt loose and the pulley should be easy to access with no radiator / fan in the way. I'm still waiting on my intake manifold anyway.

Dude... you put the engine in with out the intake manifold...

Giggles.

Do you like to hit your head with a hammer while you eat ice cream? Its my analogy for trying to fit an aftermarket plenum to an rb26 in a 32.

Cheers

J.

Drat!

Somehow I was thinking there would be all kinds of room for that install?! hmmm...Doesn't matter anyway needed to fabricate downpipe, oil cooler lines, intercooler piping. I wasn't about to wait 3 weeks to start all that nasty work.

I'm going to hold off on my "this turbo fits great on the RAW Brokerage manifold" for now. Ran into issues last night...not all of which are completely solved as of yet...stay tuned.

I did, however, find a GREAT spot to bolt the Honeywell Hall trigger straight to the oil pump cover. I will fabricate a mount to solidify it in it's location, but it sure looked convenient! I will need to machine a 12 tooth gear that will have to be like a flywheel ring gear on the outside of my Fluidampr harmonic balancer. Keep in mind that I am running Tomei pump and Fluidampr. This location may not work for anything else.

post-136202-0-34175500-1438699535_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-94934600-1438699547_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-93878200-1438699559_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-93781200-1438699572_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Looking good, looking forward to seeing how the EFR works with the Crower.

Seen a few on RB30/26 but not on a stroker with the 0.92 housing.

A pity Full Race do not put up a graph of the blue R34gtr.

Keep up the good work !

The factory CAS doesn't work well with Motec or Autronic, I can't comment on the Haltech.

just correcting this... the latest Autronic SM4 chip (1.09 i think) has no issues reading factory Nissan CAS sensors. the 180 tooth one.

Can still change the sensor, but its not necessary.

Be interested to know how they fixed this when the inherent flaw is that lack of a crank mounted sensor rather than the Ecu. I know the Oem ecu actually changes its read mode to ignore the interference at high revs...

Be interested to know how they fixed this when the inherent flaw is that lack of a crank mounted sensor rather than the Ecu. I know the Oem ecu actually changes its read mode to ignore the interference at high revs...

That's true, I believe the chip can read/interpret information quicker (apparently a 25% improvement over the last chip).

I'm mounting a sensor on the clutch to make up for no crank sensor... Damn nissans

I am building custom engine mounts to lower the engine in order to clearance the turbo from the hood.

This was in addition to cutting the hood. It seems the angle of the RAW brokerage manifold just pitches the compressor up too high and it gets in the way quickly. They really could easily make another CNC machined collector to correct for this...but i'm not waiting again.

Now I have to reroute the PS return line and build a new AC line...which really isn't that big of a deal but dang I went with the RAW manifold because the Full-Race one had those issues and I didn't want to have to solve them.

But the custom mounts are already designed and I'm waiting on purable urethane to get here to finish them.

They will go from 1+13/16" height down to 1+1/4" height. Basically drops the engine 1/2", which should help CG other and only hurt with clearance on my already pretty low Greddy Trust oil pan sump. I'll get clearance numbers after I get it all together. I really only need to change the left side (when sitting in car), but I will likely build two of them.

I'll keep everyone posted. Big updates should be coming after this coming weekend.

I attached pictures of the location of the turbo AFTER lowering the mount by 1/2"! note how tall it still sticks over the fenders.

Thanks.

post-136202-0-97309400-1439832667_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-85966900-1439832682_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-59377500-1439832689_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-45641700-1439832841_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...