Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So recently iv just done the 100k on my GT.

6 iridium bkr5eIV - 11.

6 splitfires

High flow air panel.

New timing belt.

New pulleys.

Oil and all that shabazz.

(no need for oil details)

Anyway I still have 10 days to decide to take back the k&n panel and replace.

I have been thinking recently about building a cold air intake from the front right side bumper and using a heat Sheild under the AFM. Exchange the panel for pod.

My only reasoning is I had a lot of fun working on her doing the above listed and don't want to stop so want a decent project.

And B have heard of noise changes. I would be loving to hear if a whistle (ish) noise is possible.

I know a lot of people say a standard high flow panel is enough. But if I'd work on a heat shield and a intake pipe all the way from the front right. I couldn't see it taking in a different temp of air from the original air intake under the bonnet catch.

Anyway cheers guys.

Be keen to hear from you all and if you have any tutorials you know of to post please do so.

Laany

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448093-pod-filter-debate/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, I got my hands on a apex super flow, the pod filter is supposed to decrease turbulence created by cheap pod filters, and somehow flows better air into the turbo.

I also grabbed a already made panel that stops "heat soak" meaning supposedly stops engine heat going through your pod filter and just draws in cold air.

also got a maf adapter.

Pod filter - $80 delivered

post-89929-0-11346800-1409465896_thumb.jpg

Panel - $80

post-89929-0-76662600-1409465918_thumb.jpg

Maf adapter - $12

post-89929-0-89585600-1409465931_thumb.jpg

And by stock filter what do you mean?

The original nissan filter. They are good.

Replacing the camshaft seals is very easy whe n you have the timing belt off. They typically leak pretty soon.

The inlet one is very easy to pick out, the exhaust one carefully screw a self tapper screw into it to get it out.

Don't they come standard with a CAI.

If yours doesn't have one then I would chase a standard one down and use a OEM filter.

Modifying a N/A to get some power is a futile effort unless you are willing to spend 10's of thousands of dollars to get 100kw of extra power.

You can make it sound better with a pod, it may either make the same power, or, most likely less power though.

Its all basic science and physics.

Take the K+N back, they are illegal these days for a few reasons, the main one being they cover the AFM in oil causing them to miscalculate the airflow.

Pod filters are crap, they suck hot air from the engine bay unless they are in a perfectly designed and sealed CAI, It would cost you plenty of coin to even get close to matching the efficiency of the stock airbox.

I have seen the standard sized Nissan panel and airbox flow 500kw so the intake is not your problem. ^^ Listen to Bob, tyres, suspension and brakes would actually make you faster and safer.

Take the K+N back, they are illegal these days for a few reasons, the main one being they cover the AFM in oil causing them to miscalculate the airflow.

I'm inclined to disagree. I have had a K&N panel filter in my R33 for around 7 years and I am yet to have any issues with my AFM, the biggest issue I have is that the filter cleaning solution plays havoc with my skin so I need to wear gloves when cleaning my filter. In this time I have also have plenty of police look at the K&N sticker on my air box and not one has made a comment regarding it. K&N (obviously) stand behind their product and it shows as they appear to have done plenty of testing to show that K&N filter oil does not contaminate AFM sensors which can be read here

On the flip side, I think there are very limited performance gains to be had with a K&N (or any aftermarket) filter. I find the K&N item is preferable as I can take it out, clean it, re-oil it and slap it back in without having to go and get a new filter.

tl;dr

My message to the OP; no filter in existence is going to give you the whistle you are looking for. A pod filter may give you a bit of an induction noise but that's about it.

As for a cold air intake, watch this video and make up your own mind

Some dude in USA did some testing with air filters. Found that (surprise surprise) oiled filters weren't that great. Sponge filters (e.g. HKS) were shit. Best was Apexi paper but they are really expensive.

What's the cost of a K&N + oil/cleaners vs. $15 a year for a Ryco or Nissan paper filter? What are the gains and how much filtration do you lose? Those are the questions you should be asking yourself.

I rather have a paper filter that I can throw away than have a filter that I essentially keep rinsing.

OP, try a UniFilter (a.k.a. sponge on a funnel). I had one on my GTS-t when I first got it, it was loud as fark and filtered nothing smaller than leaves and pebbles. You might get a hissing noise on an N/A.

You also have this option:

40820d1111028860-fs-arospeed-coldfront-i

I have a n/a though man so taking that into consideration does it all still work the same.

when I bought my GTS (R33 N/A) it had a pod filter on it. Didn't make one ounce of different noise than the stock box. I changed it back to the stock airbox as pod filters are just shitty hot air intakes asking for a defect on an N/A.

when I bought my GTS (R33 N/A) it had a pod filter on it. Didn't make one ounce of different noise than the stock box. I changed it back to the stock airbox as pod filters are just shitty hot air intakes asking for a defect on an N/A.

That's what I was waiting for. Cheers man. Haha. Someone who's actually had it.

Thanks everyone.

Gonna just do a paint job and sell and get something else.

In East of Melbourne in Yarra Valley if anyone would know of anyone interested. Probably between 12-15k. Got 130 on clock.

post-135457-1409648332629_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

not sure if you have one already but a nice cat back exhaust on an N/A really is a wonderful sound. Also a job you can do yourself and cheaply too if you pick up the cat back 2nd hand.

Don't be tempted to go for a GT-T cat back though as the turbo exhaust are too open and loud for N/As. It will drone...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...