Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No Frigan way, lol on my single set up yea maybe.. Not with twins

Costs you more to do an engine by the time you refill coolant, power steering, front diff too

Actually I take that back... Not even with a single

Says the bloke building a 3.2 L. :D

Oh shit, beeeeen soooooo long I forgot about that and I was just getting used of the awesome power of the Tiida on 98 pump :)

Just been told the motor is complete and they are modifying the sump to suit the RB30 all wheel drive conversion, whatever that means :)

They bloody well should have from factory. Fairy ass 2.6 junk

Rb 30s don't have an awd sump

maybe thats why they are modifying it?

I do have a 9Lt sump on the car.

Ahh yes.. I forgot about that..

Please tell me your getting your old engine and head back?

getting everything back , I will need a truck to pick up all of the leftovers :(

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish

No Frigan way, lol on my single set up yea maybe.. Not with twins

Costs you more to do an engine by the time you refill coolant, power steering, front diff too

Actually I take that back... Not even with a single

took me less time doing the engine swap leaving the box in then taking it out

We don't build em to drive them around the car park :P

Pretty true mate, I was going to buy a new GTR but I did not have a feeling for them, saw the R34GTR and bought it , untuned and still had 1000 Klms to run it in. Unfortunately it was nothing like the Lees said it would be once it had the final tune, peaky 338awkw and crap as a DD.

Had to make my mind up what to do with it, modify it so it drives the way I want or piss it off. I tried a few mods that worked OK but still to weak until 3500rpm. the only way I could see how to get it firing up from the get-go was a stroker, maybe I went too far with the Nitto 3.2 but I figured more is better than less for what I want and the right foot or boost controller can take care of the extra power if I do not want to use it.

Might try some Hill Climbs and a few Mugs day at EC??

Have a look at it, how could I sell it, A GTR Skyline and like anything, if you like it, you like it!

post-52098-0-13537400-1421742877_thumb.jpg

post-52098-0-19951600-1421742923_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...