Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yo
I was driving my mates r34 gtt today it has 330 kw blah blah, with a heavy duty clutch and standard drive train.
As i hit boost in second gear it broke the passenger side rear drive shaft. This is the second time its happen on the same side. The drive shaft has lasted two months tops since its been rebuilt.
as any one else had this problem ? does he maybe have a problem with his diff causing it to break on the same side ?

thanks in advance ?


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451743-breaking-rear-drive-sharfts/
Share on other sites

Just because it snapped coming on boost doesn't mean that's what killed it, the damage was done (not long) before the failure looking at the pics.

How hard does he drive it? Would take a massive shock loading to snap that shaft...

  • Like 1

No, GTR are outright 6 bolt, plus stronger everything.

NA should be 2x3 6 bolters, like S chassis cars, with the weakest CVs. R32/3/4 turbos should be 5 bolt with the "medium" strength CVs.

I must be going crazy, Could have sworn when I was looking at driveshafts when I snapped mine the GTR ones were 3x2 but a quick search now it seems that they are 6x1. Going senile at age 25 it seems..... :S haha

When I snapped mine I figured it was from excessive axle tramp (the initial fracture) and a hard launch one day finished it off. It was a very similar failure to yours. This was on 195rwkw with 19" wheels and 265 wide rear tyres. I now have near 300rwkw and 18" wheels with 265 tyres and Havent had a driveshaft problem since the first one. Mind you I dont go dropping my clutch and doing skids

Any pot holes or rough road when it happened?

Saw a gearbox break recently due to this, going onto power, car got slightly light and back down again over the roughness killing the box.

Never had a issue on the flat in the past.

As could axel tramp.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 years later...
On 12/15/2014 at 5:55 PM, r34unit said:

post-99078-14186264603518_thumb.jpgpost-99078-14186264727933_thumb.jpgypost-99078-1418626504493_thumb.jpgpost-99078-14186265196841_thumb.jpg

Nice pics, very interesting break. I'm no expert but it looks like metal fatigue.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_(material)#/media/File:Tender_fatigued_axle.JPG

If the replaced driveshaft was a used part a contributing factor could be that the unit was repeatedly loaded beyond its intended limit during its lifetime aswell. Similar to when you bend a paper clip at the same point until it eventually snaps.

Dark, corroded void near surface looks like it may also be a manufacturing defect but that's just assumption, could be just oil stain.

As to why coincidently passenger drive shaft failure may be to do with how the differential is transferring load, similar to how an open differential spins one tyre under certain conditions.

May only be far fetched and theoretical but hope this contributes to the discussion.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...