Hybrid Turbo Outlet -> Standard Piping R33/rb25

[Torques]

I'm planning on testing out a new hybrid turbo.

This one does not come with the OEM turbine housing though, so it's just a round flange.

What's the best way connecting the turbo outlet to the standard piping?

Cheers ..

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

A 90 degree silicon bend

[Torques]

Thanks,

I thought about this .. though 90 degrees sounds detrimental to airflow..

[89CAL]

The compressor outlet? Has a 90 degree hardpipe bolted to it on the stock turbo, dont understand what the problem with airflow with a silicon 90 degree bend would cause?

[Blackkers]

Yeah 90 degree silicone hose looks ugly and cheap too but it does work so long as you can keep it away from the exhaust manifold; or you will be replacing it often.

Another option is to pull the compressor cover off and take it to a fabricator to weld a 90 degree bend on the outlet

[89CAL]

Std manifold shouldnt cause an issue with a silicon 90. My 6boost was a different story. Had to get a solid bend welded on

[jiffo]

Not much of a lip on that outlet Andrew, think you might have some blow-offs once she starts making boost.

[Torques]

Charge tubing design affects the overall performance, so there are a few points to keep in
mind to get the best performance from your system.
Duct bend radius:
Radius/diameter > 1.5
Avoid area changes, sharp transitions, shape changes

I could possibly find some smoothly bend alloy tubes ( or even silicone ones)

The compressor outlet? Has a 90 degree hardpipe bolted to it on the stock turbo, dont understand what the problem with airflow with a silicon 90 degree bend would cause?

[89CAL]

Well either way you have your answer. Silicone joimer or weld on a 90 degree pipe

Honestly, a silicone joiner is not going to cost you a noticable amount of power/flow

[Torques]

Agree a 100%, looks cheap.. also I'm not a huge fan of stubby silicone bits ..

The welding option sounds like a good idea.

Yeah 90 degree silicone hose looks ugly and cheap too but it does work so long as you can keep it away from the exhaust manifold; or you will be replacing it often.

Another option is to pull the compressor cover off and take it to a fabricator to weld a 90 degree bend on the outlet

Edited December 26, 2014 by Torques

[GTSBoy]

Charge tubing design affects the overall performance, so there are a few points to keep in

mind to get the best performance from your system.

Duct bend radius:

Radius/diameter > 1.5

Avoid area changes, sharp transitions, shape changes

I could possibly find some smoothly bend alloy tubes ( or even silicone ones)

Take it from a professional aerodynamicist (of sorts)......A 90° bend at the turbo outlet will cost you absolutely bugger all compared to any other option you could come up with.

[Torques]

Take it from a professional aerodynamicist (of sorts)......A 90° bend at the turbo outlet will cost you absolutely bugger all compared to any other option you could come up with.

Yes, the bend is still in the cards ... best practices solution

[Ben C34]

You would be going for absolute max power to care for a split second about that bend.

I am amused at humans ability to really focus on and worry about stuff that doesn't matter, while huge issues go by unnoticed. Have you ported the cylinder head? That will gain much more than whether you manage to increase the radius of a bend slightly.

Or use no intercooler. That gets rid of heaps of power robbing bends. (Use water injection)

What is a hybrid turbo? Aren't they shit anyway?

Edited December 26, 2014 by Ben C34

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

0.005kW by not using a silicone bend ummkay, that way you won't loose power from the silicone bend expanding ever so slightly.

I use a 4 ply silicone bend, hasn't exploded and get trashed on the track every few months. It regularly sees over 1.5bar through it too.

[Jordy32]

Silicon bend or weld on an elbow as previously stated are you two realistic options both of which will harbor the same result

You seem pretty hell bent on getting an elbow welded on though...