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I plan on testing the balance of the balancer however with the same amount of material being removed on all sides it should not too be much out of the original balance.

I would be interested in the results from this, modifying the factory balancer could save $700+

I have the ross 32-2 teeth setup with the standard CAS for phasing

There are plenty of kits floating around the world ATM, but it is always good to see someone else's approach to this issue

You just use the input that would normally read the crank angle output from the factory CAS, it just has to be programable

Are you saying the factory cas can be retained and the signal just has to be modified so it can be interpreted?

..

I'm not sold on the design of the cam trigger finger, but everything else looks great

Edited by BlackBox

I'll let you know once i've found someone to balance it for me.

The factory CAS could be used in theory just as a reference. The factory CAS disk has 360 outer slots and from memory a single inner ring for the reference.

Me either at this stage. I'm happy with just using a steel bolt on the adjustable CAM gear however I thought people would like something universal without the need for a aftermarket cam gear however I guess in the scheme of things having to spend $300 on a pair of gears isn't a bit deal.

Are you saying the factory cas can be retained and the signal just has to be modified so it can be interpreted?

..

I'm not sold on the design of the cam trigger finger, but everything else looks great

Nah I didn't have to touch the stock Cas just pick up the crank signal at the ECU plug and run a new wire to the crank trigger then change the settings in the cam/phase settings to read the 6 different sized slots in the ECU, it has an event counter it phases from

The new design cam wheel looks heaps better

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Nah I didn't have to touch the stock Cas just pick up the crank signal at the ECU plug and run a new wire to the crank trigger then change the settings in the cam/phase settings to read the 6 different sized slots in the ECU, it has an event counter it phases from

The new design cam wheel looks heaps better

Thats what always had me wondering why people were putting a new sensor on the cam, factory one already has it for cam position phasing, just dont use the signal from the 360 outer slots and run a wire like you did from the crank trigger.

Makes life so much simpler.

If somebody could describe how to do this in a bit more detail I would be extremely appreciative, (pm if necessary don't want to deviate too much more)

The FC can't do this, I would be a little suprised if even the top Haltech could do it, interested to know if it can for sure

Easiest way with the FC is get a 36-2 trigger wheel with the missing teeth @ 85deg after TDC and the convertor box from Ross to convert the trigger wheel signal to what the FC will read, can also be used with stock and Nistune ECUs

That makes no sense

The ECU only works as well as the hard wear giving it reference

I understand that but I have read many posts sayin that it's a problem only with the newer ECU, because of the optical sensor and the speed of the new ecu's..

The concencus of the recent discussion (in another thread not far from here) was that older, slower ECUs are not seeeing (all) the timing fluctuations that the newer faster ones are. There may be some placebo involved iin that findiing, because the comparisons may not be sufficiently scientific (ie, same car, same timing belt, same CAS, just the ECU changed). But it is distinctly possible that it is true.

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