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17 minutes ago, Duncan said:

I thought the K11 Micra front end conversion was pretty shmick

I assume you’re talking about the Daihatsu Cuore with the “Mira Gino” front end conversion 

if so it’s also turbo converted and makes ~100kw from the 1.0L 3cyl

  • Like 1

I purchased some (used but new to me) Yokohama A050 Mediums to try out for the first time and fitted them up to one of my sets of Rays TE Fortesst's. Sizes are 235/45R17 front and 255/40R17 rear.

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They are very chonky compared to the same sized AD09 on the same sized rim.

Some fiddling will be needed to make them fit.

How much camber do these like as a general rule? I imagine more than the rear camber of -1.5' I typically run. So my plan is to target -3.8 front and -2 rear

2 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

You're going to need all that and more to keep them from rubbing at the rear anyway, is my guess.

Yeah it is wild how much wider the

Yokohama A050 in 255/40R17 

vs

Yokohama AD09 in 255/40R17

sits on the 17x9 +22

considering its even from the same brand and adjacent product family 

Yeah they are mega expensive, but at least you get a bit more rubber for your money :)

I don't know what you are running at the front now, but at the rear I would keep it at 1.5, you need the tyres to sit reasonably flat to get power down, I think you will find it loses grip too soon at 2.5

In the front, the amount of caster is more important. The r33 gtst we just did the race alignment for had only 1.5 camber on the front, but heaps of caster, it drives very nice.

19 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Yeah they are mega expensive, but at least you get a bit more rubber for your money :)

I don't know what you are running at the front now, but at the rear I would keep it at 1.5, you need the tyres to sit reasonably flat to get power down, I think you will find it loses grip too soon at 2.5

In the front, the amount of caster is more important. The r33 gtst we just did the race alignment for had only 1.5 camber on the front, but heaps of caster, it drives very nice.

I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance. 

My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to. 

front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc

Front:

Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side)

Caster +7.5°

Camber -3.8°

Ackerman +15°

Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much

18 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much

I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 

  • 2 weeks later...

Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it"

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all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time

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First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold

The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's.

Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds.

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Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this.

in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight.

 

Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home

 

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1

Got it back home and got started pulling the hub off and diagnose the issue. Axle was stuck after removing the 36mm nut so i used a 3 jaw puller to try and push it out and...

 

spend the next few hours trying to remove the axle from the remaining hub as it was very much jammed in there when the spindle sheared off.

resulting damage as below

 

Looks like the was already a stress fracturing in the spindle as can be seen with the darker cracked section

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My working theory is maybe when the pinion gear exploded last year the shock put through the hub was the initial crack. Then a few events later it finally let go. Just lucky it happened where it did and not 190km/h on the next sweeper or into the hairpin

The bearing/hub assembly went in in 2019 and were non-genuine "ZSS" assemblies

and no nails were harmed in the process. #BreakHubsNotNails

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  • Like 1
38 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Hell, I'm sufficiently wary of the ZSS suspension arms, let alone something like a hub.

Yeah maybe I got a bad batch that only lasted 6 years. Or conversely maybe I got a good batch that managed to last 6 years. 
 

Either way I have sourced a set of OEM hub/bearing assemblies 

7 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I am trying to understand how that even happened to the hub... wtf

so I keep hearing! Even from life long mechanics. Apparently this failure is unheard of…

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