Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I just bought a R33 GTS-T and it's a great car but the tyres on it are on there way out. I've been driving it around a bit and in the dry they seem ok but in the wet and not even on a hill there is no way I can take off without losing traction. Basically what I'm looking for is a set of tyres that have good grip in the wet and don't make too much noise.

What do you guys recommend? I am thinking of going with the Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE002.

By the way I did look at the sticky post but there is too many pages and different ratings on tyres. My price range is flexible, obviously cheaper the better but if I have to fork out for a good set I do not mind - probably keep it under $1000 for a set though.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452541-r33-gts-t-best-tyres-for-in-the-wet/
Share on other sites

KU31. Cheap, cheerful and they work.

KU36. Cheap, cheerful, stick like shit to a blanket, noisy as buggery, but worth it.

There are many other options, even some very cheap ones, such as the Federals, Achilles, etc.

Most serious brand (Goodyear, Dunlop, Bridgestone, Pirelli, Yokohama, Toyo, etc) tyres that are not really OLD (like the FK452) are going to cost more than $1k per set.

Perhaps I should confess that the 36s are not the BEST in the wet. They work fine in the wet, but they won't handle standing water. Not enough tread on them to pump a LOT of water. But I've never had low confidence with them in winter. Just don't lean on them cold, and don't try to tow skiers.

I'm a big fan of Maxxis tyres and they are more than reasonably priced. I have a pair of terrible tyres on the back of my GTST at the moment that came with the wheels I bought, they do the same thing in the wet as you describe. After a good research session the other day I settled on getting a couple of Maxxis MA-511 to replace them. They seem to be a newer version of the Maxxis MA-V1 which I have had a set on the front for years and can't say enough good things about.

A good tyre review and opinion site to check out and see how a potential purchase is going to stack up is http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/

Edited by Malakai

Nitto INVO tyres aren't too bad in the wet either and provide decent dry weather grip.. Great daily tyres IMO and not too noisy.

At the same time, perhaps look at lightly shimming up the diff OR just going with a new mechanical diff. I find the stock VLSD likes to single peg on days, it's very temperamental like a female.

I'm running Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 2 in 17" and they are really quite good in both dry and wet. Paid about $900 new for a set online. Always check the date of manufacture before buying though.

I'm running Goodyear Eagle Asymmetric 2 in 17" and they are really quite good in both dry and wet. Paid about $900 new for a set online. Always check the date of manufacture before buying though.

I just took a set of those off my car. Totally underwhelming tyre. Not awful. Just.....not great. Only lasted 12000km.

I just took a set of those off my car. Totally underwhelming tyre. Not awful. Just.....not great. Only lasted 12000km.

Interesting, what did you have prior and what are you running now, out of curiosity?

KU36 before. And oddly enough, KU36 again. I was actually intending to get RS-3s, but they're unavailable for the next 3 months.

The Goodyears had this horrible tendency to judder as I turned out of my driveway (like......really really low speed understeer!). I spent ages trying to work out if it was a tyre issue or an alignment issue, including spending on 2 extra alignments that the car wouldn't have gotten. So, on the Tuesday morning with Goodyears on it judders on the way out. On the Wednesday morning with the KUs on, no judder. I think that answered that question. That sort of crap pretty much explains my experience with the Goodyears.

I've used KU36 probably 7/8 years ago - wasn't a total fan of them to be honest..

But then again, they were never taken on the track. I found they did like to understeer until it had some decent heat through them

Maybe. Dunno about that pricing here in Adelaide though (as in, getting Nitto for pricing that's competitive with the KU36 price). The Tyrepower store I use are good blokes who are aware that I have previously bought in tyres from the eastern states and from the US to get good stuff at good pricing, and so they tend to offer me the best pricing that they can. They handle Nitto also, and the pricing on them was not attractive last week.

I'm up for new tyres soon too, not sure I want to put NT01s at the rear.. that might result in a broken gearbox :(

I'm running NT01 at the front, surprisingly they're not too bad in the wet!

Ive got Hankook Ventus 452s on the mrs car and also on my XR6 work ute which has an alloy tray and even in the wet in 1st gear the traction control light doesn't come on! Pretty impressive all rounders actually. They are quiet with very good grip wet and dry are reasonably priced.

I also am not a fan of the KU36. The RS-3s shit all over them in all conditions and are also probably a bees dick quieter. But they aren't what you'd call quiet lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...