Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...

since the freddy went on i had to dodgy up some piping so i could drive to the exhaust shop to get my cooler piping made up,

IMG_3509.thumb.JPG.cd14508fdc32a67bf6cc9

I was also in the process of mounting my battery in the boot as i wanted that space free'd up for other things like my BOV, FPR  and oil filter.

IMG_3535.thumb.JPG.2a42b1fe1e330ac52f055

 

 

I used the same battery mounts - just modified, a little. its really firm and in a good spot, kinda like the r33.

I also used a 100amp fuse right next to the battery ( in the spot were the cable ties the cable down)

 

i got 3" piping made up, and right before the plenum i had my adjustable GFB BOV mounted, along with the idle control port.

IMG_3806.thumb.JPG.4e36b697f3279bda96593

IMG_3836.thumb.JPG.f16891e884200372b92b3

the BOV can still recirculate wasted air as the exhaust shop has made up a small 1" pipe that carry's the air from BOV back across the radiator and plumbed back into turbo.

when I was able to drive the car again i noticed my acceleration pedal was rather "sticky" that was due to a crappy throttle body, i tried modifying it and tried to make it better but it was hard to crack open and it liked to stay open after you take your foot of the pedal.

IMG_3868.thumb.JPG.8a60c545f0cf0e02c4caa

 

anyway my tune was booked in so i took her in and it was tuned with a dodgy throttle body on, shortly after replaced with a HyperTune Q45 throttle, and it was fantastic!

made just under 350kw's

IMG_3866.thumb.JPG.73b2cd55c353ec61ba7b9

IMG_3875.thumb.JPG.aae29f10364daeec179d2

IMG_3876.thumb.JPG.f7b8c13783d2128f4cd7d

I did still however have a high idle (1100rpm) with my idle adjustment screw wound in i found the only way to bring the idle down was to disconnect the electric adjusting motor, which i later put in a switch so i could keep the higher idle for cold starts.

Next up was re-going over my braking system.

I was using EBC blue stuff pads which didn't do too bad for the price, but i need something more reliable and something with more bite, so i switched over to Project U's HC 800 pads, coupled with some DBA track rotors, and HEL braided lines.

IMG_3902.thumb.JPG.faa0a7f782186edf17f0aIMG_3916.thumb.JPG.d2500fb46ec1dc3cfc1b5IMG_3918.thumb.JPG.6d424deddadf7577e7520

I got the pads and rotors in, but haven't yet done the brake lines

when changing over pads i for some stupid reason decide to throw out my anti squeal shims *angry face* so when i put this pads in they squeal like crazy!

so I did purchase some new anti squeal shims, along with seal kits for all 4 callipers, which i plan to instal soon.

 

This low KM 250GT popped up for sale real cheap, so it became the missus new daily!

IMG_4130.thumb.JPG.6cf6802c8561208f4925bIMG_4132.thumb.JPG.a68008595b60ea47483f0IMG_4134.thumb.JPG.6a813cebaba7e38bc786f

 

 

 

IMG_3866.JPG

IMG_3868.JPG

IMG_3875.JPG

IMG_3876.JPG

IMG_3902.JPG

IMG_3916.JPG

IMG_3918.JPG

IMG_3919.JPG

IMG_3924.JPG

IMG_3954.JPG

IMG_3955.JPG

IMG_4130.JPG

IMG_4132.JPG

IMG_4134.JPG

I had been having drama's with the car -

it occasionally after a bit of a drive refused to start when warm... 5 mins later it would start.

as it got worst it started miss firing at around 3k rpm, eventually it refused to rev past 3krpm and just had ignition cut!
It turned out to be a faulty CAS!

the disk inside the CAS had scratches and wear marks on it, so replaced with another one and it came back alive :)

 

IMG_4139.JPG

andddd because today was such a nice day i got some painting done :)

so happy with my devilbiss SGK 600! I fan it out a bit more when laying down colour, and then concentrate a tiny bit more for clear, and it comes out great!

it was still a little cold when i did my bonnet but nothing a block back and buff won't fix :)

IMG_4173.JPG

IMG_4174.JPG

IMG_4175.JPG

IMG_4176.JPG

IMG_4177.JPG

Whilst at the tuners - he noticed a slight exhaust leak, also was told my intercooler isn't flowing to well..and then later to have a problematic CAS makes me think that I should go back for a re tune with a better cooler, probably plazmaman.

  • 2 weeks later...

Went for a bit of a boost today while giving my new camera a run, and the Z-tune bonnet i had repaired ripped apart from the skin :laugh::banana:

that was fun.

heres a video of it happening -

and some photos when i got it home.

 

YDXJ0036.JPG

YDXJ0037.JPG

YDXJ0038.JPG

YDXJ0039.JPG

YDXJ0040.JPG

YDXJ0041.JPG

YDXJ0042.JPG

51 minutes ago, vetter2769 said:

Went for a bit of a boost today while giving my new camera a run, and the Z-tune bonnet i had repaired ripped apart from the skin :laugh::banana:

that was fun.

heres a video of it happening -

Whoa that's pretty extreme! You're lucky, doesn't look like any damage to the window or the roof – and no accidents!

I'm not too sold on aftermarket bonnets now having seen this...

  • 3 weeks later...

Nice build mate

 

Very similiar to mine. 

Neo with an ATR45 turbo. Though i think yours is a newer design got mine a few years ago.

 

Differences:

Mines a build motor, brae side mount manifold, internal gate, stock airbox, return flow cooler

Can't find my dyno graph but this will do for now

 

 

14291709_1410986545582367_19880591555517

 

 

Edited by blah_blah
  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...

Haven't done much recently, but still playing around with the body kit, I've sprayed up my side skirts, rear bar and fitted them.

I'm pretty happy with it.

I'm still looking into a new diff, then perhaps later down the track a plazmaman cooler new coil packs and a re tune.

added some photos i took with my mates too. :15_yum:

 

I'm gonna say for the first time I am considering building the motor... No fancy 25/30 stuff either just straight up 25neo built.... maybe one day if the wallet allows. stay tuned.

YDXJ0451.JPG

YDXJ0452.JPG

YDXJ0458.JPG

YDXJ0460.JPG

YDXJ0457.JPG

YDXJ0453.JPG

  • 1 month later...

Update - bought a second hand bonnet, cut the lip off, and it fits perfectly with the front bar. 

then cut out the Z tune fenders and threw it on!

looks like i could make this work.... 

now for some more cutting and bogging.

I've been adding regular videos to youtube just based around my 34, heres something i threw together after a day down the Great Ocean Road-

 

17618939_10154883536965266_86455722_n.jpg

17690722_10154883536995266_1882438036_n.jpg

17690785_10154883537010266_1305460526_n.jpg

17741276_10154883536960266_849345515_n.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Got my lazy ass of the couch this weekend, made that bonnet fit - painted it gloss black, looks really good.

had to raise the front coil-overs a little just so i could get out of my driveway.

and was noticing it was becoming increasingly more and more difficult to start - I put this down to the E85 and cold weather but turns out the little battery just wasn't keeping up, turns out if these cars don't see a good amount of voltage they won't fire. 

I had already moved the battery to the boot so had plenty of room, I just upgraded to the biggest battery i could fit/afford, then used "0" gauge cable on it.

going to upgrade the starter and alternator wires to "O" gauge in the future.

 

Pics -

 

Battery before and after (exciting stuff)

IMG_6231.thumb.JPG.d4b70e6b7985956356008f5c019d9ace.JPG

IMG_6237.thumb.JPG.d80daa9b5c4e6ae2668063f64858c7ee.JPG

IMG_6248.JPG

IMG_6251.JPG

IMG_6252.JPG

IMG_6253.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • 🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...