Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Did the major service in februrary and since then i've just been enjoying driving it without needing or wanting anything. besides more power :D 

After the tune, suspension, brakes, and tyres the car has been fantastic and has transformed it into a capable and enjoyable car to drive.

 

The mod bug hit me again a few months and i've put it off until breaking point. The next step is to clean it up ready for sale, starting with the engine bay.

So far i have almost everything needed for the hotside clean up and wiring tuck etc. Once the hotside is done i will move on to the cold side, and then the exterior.

  • 8 months later...

So a few things have happened in the last few months. 

 

The turbo is an ATR43G3SAT from Hypergear. The install of these is pretty easy if you do your research and have all the things needed infront of you.

The dump pipe is an xforce one which I die grinded the inlet to match the turbo.

I got a new muffler which is 2.3" so it's pretty quiet when cruising around, and you can see at the kink there is a 3" electric valve cutout. Sounds unreal once it's opened.

The engine bay is no where near done, but i thought i'd post a pic of some of the things i've done. 

 

Tuning this new turbo has been fun so far, It was a little bit concerning when i went on my first drive and it only made 13psi by 4.5k under wastegate pressure haha. A few logs and some tuning i am now able to make 8psi at 50% throttle at 2.8k which is more than enough usable boost, and my midrange has picked up significantly.

Stock injectors have been holding up... not really. They're sitting around 120%DC. So i'll put in some 480cc i have from 2 jap sr20's. 

Once i think i have the tune perfect ill be going to see Johhny who will let me know if im on the money, I can't wait to go and see him.

 

image1.JPG

image2.JPG

image3.JPG

image5.JPG

image6.JPG

image7.JPG

image8.JPG

image9.JPG

image10.JPG

image11.JPG

image12.JPG

image13.JPG

image14.JPG

image15.JPG

image16.JPG

22 minutes ago, admS15 said:

Looking good except for that dump pipe gasket, that belongs in the bin. Compare it to an oem or permaseal one and you'll see why. I suppose its in there now, once it lets go, u know what to replace it with.

It was the only thing that was skimped on and you pick it out :P I just couldn't justify $50 for a dump gasket... They can't be too bad of a design as they squish flat? The perforated holes will probably link into a crack eventually i guess.

:O wish I knew that when I orders the permaseal t3 gaskets... o well.

I just noticed I didn't have any photos of the new turbo in.
Just a bit of a mockup of the intake and hot side from today's efforts. Will be finished off with new clamps, paint, silicone, stock heat shield etc once they get here.

IMG_7523.jpg
IMG_7524.jpg

The 440* s15 injectors are in and tuned. Sitting at a nice 70% DC. Which i have pushed to 90% already...

I'll just get a turbosmart fpr2000 from Johnny and run a base pressure of 50psi. The fpr looks very stable and reliable in Andy's tests and it will push the cc to around 480

I was about to ask why not a manual??? but then I saw the Corona box...pretty hard to be drinkin' a coldy and manually shifting at the same time :P

I can't imagine the dump would see enough pressure for that gasket to be an issue... could you believe a reputable workshop used a turbo gasket (manifold to turbo) similar to that material in my R33 which gave out??  Forgot to take a picture, but OEM was soo much better quality

What's the second new turbo for??

  • Like 1

Hahaha same as holding hands while driving. My love is never broken.

I was given these flat plates for the turbo gaskets, threw them out and got a multilayer permaseal. Much better!

Second is Tyler's, the white stag with 34 front above

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

Fuel pump is dying. So i grounded the pump, and a new walbro is on it's way.

Gearbox needs a shift kit and billet servo. The box is still tight, but not enjoying the 1-2-3.
Heaps of stuff has been changed or removed, re did most of my wiring and tucked it away. 

Found the wastegate arm was getting loose because the bracket isn't strong enough, I'll make a new one.

Found a huge boost leak and a few other problems which are now rectified. 

Johnny has been helping immensely on the tuning. He setup closed loop boost and adaptive tuning for safety, and did quite a lot of work on the ign and fuel table which has helped boost come on earlier and keep afrs more stable.

 

 

image1.jpeg

  • 2 months later...

Cars still driving fine.

Gearbox hasn't exploded into a million pieces as of yet.

I've got some Sard injectors almost ready to go in, I just need to make another loom and do a little tuning. Then 20+psi.


It does 0-100 in 5sec flat according to my logs, which isn't too bad for standard stall.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...