Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm sure a mate would do it for a slab of beer. Some bloke does them on here for $100 exchange.

It most Definately does make a difference. Plenty of info on the net about it.

While we are on the topic of exhausts. I've got hks gt-ss (-9's) turbos going in atm with hks dumps.

before you go any further get rid of the HKS dump pipes and go to an open belmouth design, due to the design of the hks pipes they are a pretty major retraction

Yeah I have read the topics relating to the mod, makes sense why it works so well. Anyone in Melbourne?

It was a very stupid design from Nissan. A little bit more thought would have gone a long way, but I Spose it worked well for it's intended purpose of 300 hp - give or take.

If you want response and internal gate then maybe a EFR8374 might be the "right" answer?!?

I know that my 6262 is better down low and up top that -5s so the EFR8374 should be even better with response and also be able to make more power than the low mounts.

For reference here is a 6262 vs -5s with similar specs on same dyno (6262 running more boost)

received_10153635513684616_zpsybzyo0oc.j

I see that the new turbo tech is good but some people have a budget want around the 400kw mark and do not want to change front pip manifold, dump pipe, intercooler pipes, Intercooler and BOV.

You still can get good results and more than enough power and response with -5's without having to change to a single turbo.

that is what i honestly think and achieved with my build.

Edited by Stixbnr32

If you want response and internal gate then maybe a EFR8374 might be the "right" answer?!?

I know that my 6262 is better down low and up top that -5s so the EFR8374 should be even better with response and also be able to make more power than the low mounts.

For reference here is a 6262 vs -5s with similar specs on same dyno (6262 running more boost)

received_10153635513684616_zpsybzyo0oc.j

See this makes me sick in the pit of my stomach :) I love my singles, but the other day I was even pulled over in my daily BMW so the plan for the R32 is get it engineered with an RB26 and low mount twins. :( All so I can continue to enjoy it as a fun club-street car for years to come...and be slower. :(

If you want response and internal gate then maybe a EFR8374 might be the "right" answer?!?

I know that my 6262 is better down low and up top that -5s so the EFR8374 should be even better with response and also be able to make more power than the low mounts.

For reference here is a 6262 vs -5s with similar specs on same dyno (6262 running more boost)

received_10153635513684616_zpsybzyo0oc.j

Well, from Matty James-Wallace' back to back between the -5's and the internal gate 8374 it's night and day. Comes on 5-700 rpm earlier than the -5's. I'd believe it too after having the pleasure of experiencing a GTR with an EFR on it too.

Well, from Matty James-Wallace' back to back between the -5's and the internal gate 8374 it's night and day. Comes on 5-700 rpm earlier than the -5's. I'd believe it too after having the pleasure of experiencing a GTR with an EFR on it too.

Yeah I've been in Matt's car and it's impressive. Hard to judge being a 3.0L vs my 2.6L, actually next time I'm at the dyno I'll try and grab and overlay.

My expectation is a EFR8474 would be a few hundred rpm earlier than mine any only miss out on a little bit top end on same capacity motor.

Edited by SimonR32

Yeah I've been in Matt's car and it's impressive. Hard to judge being a 3.0L vs my 2.6L, actually next time I'm at the dyno I'll try and grab and overlay.

My expectation is a EFR834 would be a few hundred rpm earlier than mine any only miss out on a little bit top end on same capacity motor.

That would be good for an overlay.

Interesting you say that about the top end. The 8374 has 62.6 mm inducer and 83 mm exducer compared to the 6262 of 62 mm in and 82 ex. I realize its a bit more complicated than that but food for thought as thr EFR is has a bigger front fan on both accounts.

The right sized single could certainly come on earlier than twins because you have 6cyls driving one medium exhaust exhaust wheel. On twins you effectively cut the engine in half to drive two smallish to medium exhaust wheels, this is what drives the lag profile.

Also before you go and buy random parts talk to a workshop in person and give them the problem statement. This might save you a few $k in parts only to find it does nothing to shift the boost profile where you expect it, ie I think you expect a 600rpm+ shift in boost profile from those parts, I'm not convinced they would get anywhere near that amount of change in response.

Well, from Matty James-Wallace' back to back between the -5's and the internal gate 8374 it's night and day. Comes on 5-700 rpm earlier than the -5's. I'd believe it too after having the pleasure of experiencing a GTR with an EFR on it too.

Would be curious as to where GTX2860/63s (modified for OEM fitment) fit in the mix.

They should be an improvement over normal -5s, but enough to give the EFR8374 a run for it's money? Maybe not.

Would be curious as to where GTX2860/63s (modified for OEM fitment) fit in the mix.

They should be an improvement over normal -5s, but enough to give the EFR8374 a run for it's money? Maybe not.

Issue is, who i going to do the back to back. Its alot of coin tied up in all those parts :(.

If only a company makes some steam pipe manifolds... everyone makes that stainless balla manifolds that only a few can afford...

If like to see either EFR6758s or PTE5130s as a true bolton for the RB26 so the small twins can enjoy some of the tech the big singles have been getting :(

If only a company makes some steam pipe manifolds... everyone makes that stainless balla manifolds that only a few can afford...

Manifolds are a drop in the ocean really.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...