Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Attached is the Nistune Log fresh this morning along with the items that the dealer have changed. My Car studder and shivers between 1k-2k rpm no matter what gear it is. The problem partially went away after they changed the items like gasket , maf,o2 sensor, and seals. But it still happens and I cant pinpoint the problem, last time the car was serviced it took them two weeks before getting my car back. It is my daily and I cant really afford that long down time >_< . This just happens in that rpm range >_< usually happens when the car is cold and even when the operating temp is reach it still happens , but not as much.

sorry i guess the board dont like csv files and put it on mega.

https://mega.co.nz/#!SBklkCzb!ow2js3z8UwZTcmoz1LaLRC1dstauRNDMWzZxWqqee-E

post-117548-0-68930100-1425599837_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454472-car-trouble-bnr32-1990/
Share on other sites

Get a good ECU for starters for a GTR.

Could be AFM's or harness.

new AFMs , ECU dont matter when it is in stock tune and the previous ECU is a chipped tune.

What spark plugs brand, heat range and gap are being run?

Have the coil packs been checked?

oem plugs , nissan dealer checked the coils.

its in gear, why would it be drive train ? it happens at a specific part of the revs. I can rev the engine in Neutral up to 5k drop it in gear and it would still sputter back down to 1-2k

Is this just in gear ?
could be looking at a drive train issue.

mine did this and while I was changing plugs and pissing off the 32 carbon tips on the coil spring I found both my black earth wires had been pinched and atleast half the wires had been severed (bad earth = weak spark) possibly got caught in the back of the coil cover. new coil pack harness for about 100 bucks is a good idea anyway as the original has been cooked to death.

yup, there is a trader on here somewhere who sells them.

just work your way back

copper plugs, correct head and gap
coil packs (there just old and should be replaced if not done so far)
coilpack loom, as stated.... cooked.
ignitor, also just old

just do the basics man, as you will have the sparkplugs out, do a simple compression test,

pull off rubber (usually crispy by now) vac hoses and check for cracks leaks,

check your fuel filter ect

so many threds on this kinda stuff..

i know your mechanic has checked them but really man there is only so much you can just check without replacing anyway.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...