Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah sorry, not trying to alarm just inform.

also the other issue for excessively rich tune on a new motor is fuel gets past the unbedded rings and into the oil...and petrol is terrible for bearings.

I know.

Every time I fill my tank I spin another set :)

just about back to the original thread topic, my fuel is too rich and then once it is leaned out a bit, will it give a better power result..

I know now that after a short time with new plugs you can feel the car getting more sluggish and it is not long before it wont rev much past 6000rpm without playing up.

needs more WOT.

Lower compression, thought it was the same, maybe a little different with the lager capacity ?

Maybe because I suggested they did not install the starter motor properly after the build. It was OK before then ?

I love it when people say it was OK when we tried it , but the problems are there the first time you drive it out of the shop , farking black magic :merli:

have had many "could not fault" issues.

One in particular.

Hyundai imax.

Stalls randomly.

4 service staff drove the car over 8 days(randomly and myself included).

Didn't happen once.

Customer comes in, drives, stalled.

Still trying to figure it out.

Just very hard as we can't replicate, so don't know if what we have done has worked.

Windsor exhaust did the mid muffler and i did the rear cannon which i made out of a HKS Super Drager

+1 for Windsor exhaust (west Sydney).

Built my 4 inch system, fairly quiet, just the way I wanted.

Fingers crossed this gets sorted soon.

Got everything X ,

All very frustrating , when you think they are putting the right bits in to make everything work and one keeps finding shit that is not up to the job, now the down pipe is too small :(

Paul was saying this exhaust system should never have been built this way in the first place for this build, should have been at least 4" through to the tail.

I think he said he is running twin 3" , that makes mine seem very inadequate for a 3.2 .

Any other suggestions , trouble is I feel like I have spent enough and I know I should bite the bullet and go 4" , any idea what this would cost, The old one cost about $3500 including the down pipe, they just used the old 3" Cat.

Hax near parra (can't remember his shop name) is the best guy for that job pete..

I got my exhaust done for a lot less then that and it's very very good quality steal, workman ship and I dare say there was more labour then yours by the time he did the turbo side and intake too.

Even welded new brackets for my cooler and bored out the compressor outlet of the turbo.

I can tell you I would have had a lot of change left over for 3500!

post-47556-0-77644200-1430220433_thumb.jpgpost-47556-0-59852800-1430220463_thumb.jpgpost-47556-0-60012700-1430220517_thumb.jpgpost-47556-0-93516300-1430220584_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

What size is that 4"

Here is the final Dyno tune , he said it had back pressure as the 3" exhaust is too small, I said he had a 3.5" fitted but it turns out only from the Cat to the tail and the down pipe was 3"

post-52098-0-26743200-1430221417_thumb.gif

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish

Yea 4inch to the cat.. 3.5 after.. Your turbo is bigger then mine pete

If I run a 4" to one of those Venom 5" and left the 3.5" exhaust system on , would that work OK ?

You know I am not chasing a zillion HP, just want the farking thing to work

If I run a 4" to one of those Venom 5" and left the 3.5" exhaust system on , would that work OK ?

You know I am not chasing a zillion HP, just want the farking thing to work

That's exactly what I'd be doing.

Heaps of combinations, but you want to try keep it legal as possible (probably isn't anyway :yes: ) and flow well. So the 4" from the dump is the best as you want bigger there. Then stepping down to 3.5" after the cat is perfect and can muffle some of the noise generated from this beast.

If you didn't have to worry about emissions or noise, which would never happen in the real world, then the perfect idea would be to just route a dump pipe out the side of the car.

  • Like 1

Yea that would work fine I reckon mate

If you do the Math, the area and flow of a 4inch pipe is soooo much greater then 3"

4" is equivalent area to twin 3".

My 4" in mild steel with cat, mufflers and welding the wastegate was 1700.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...