Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Doesn't sound that bad Pete. The new dump will improve response, something you should really feel driving it rather than see on a dyno. Obviously the turbo was selected for response so that's why its running out of puff up top on a 3.2 and why the bigger dump isnt making much difference in the top end. Don't stress about it. As long as all the tuning is done right so you don't have the previous issues. Don't worry about e85 either, it would be a head f**k for a daily seeing that its becoming more scarce. See how you go but I recon it should be exactly what you want. Hope so anyway. :)

I am not sure how it works but the PT6262 CEA is rated at over 700HP and this is only running around 520HP @ 22psi so I do not think it is running out of puff, might need some boost to get the 6262 going harder , do I need more boost, I do not think so,but it would be interesting to see how it goes :)

But as you said, it will be all I want if the dump gives a little more response and it only matters when you are driving it.

Why didn't that embed......

What's the response of car like, or not driving it yet?

Not yet, should be sometime this week, if the leak has been sorted, should know tomorrow and maybe it will be tuned then ?

Based on others, 6266 is better for higher revs on a 3.2. Your 62 rear is probably restricting exhaust gas flow. Even if you increase boost its a scenario of diminishing returns comparing to a bigger turbo, but the trade off would be low end. But the 3.2 will look after that to a point.

  • Like 1

Your probably around the 560-570hp mark ATM Pete

700 is absolute best case scenario

ATM it is about ,615HP ish crank. well I think 386 awkw is around 520whp

I know I keep saying this, but I still want it to go earlier , so I will wait and see what happens when I give it a run :)

I'm probably missing something;

Ran car at full power (identical set up?) and noticed less power than before...casual observation, nothing more to add?

Turned boost down (from 22 psi) and then it doesn't misfire...is that being offered as the solution to the misfire?

Put other cams in that were found to be better, then took them out again...?

  • Like 2

Based on others, 6266 is better for higher revs on a 3.2. Your 62 rear is probably restricting exhaust gas flow. Even if you increase boost its a scenario of diminishing returns comparing to a bigger turbo, but the trade off would be low end. But the 3.2 will look after that to a point.

I know this will sound dumb to you blokes that have driven these cars for yonks, but getting used of a car that revs so high is very strange.

This car was limited at 10000rpm, or maybe no limiter,the first time I went over 10000rpm because I was too slow to change up, it went nuts from 6000rpm , hit 10,000 in a flash and I shit myself LOL

I'm probably missing something;

Ran car at full power (identical set up?) and noticed less power than before...casual observation, nothing more to add?

Turned boost down (from 22 psi) and then it doesn't misfire...is that being offered as the solution to the misfire?

Put other cams in that were found to be better, then took them out again...?

Lets see how it goes, only a few days to wait until I get my arse in the car, that is the only test :)

All jokes aside, what's the obsession with turning them so damn hard? Is it the noise of it screaming it's head off?

Mainly because it would not go over 6500rpm, there was no need to do it. Shit load of fun @5500rpm :)

Mainly because it would not go over 6500rpm, there was no need to do it. Shit load of fun @5500rpm :)

Not talking about your setup. I'm talking about turning the to 10,000 rpm and beyond for a car that's driven on the street. Is 8000 rpm not enough?

All jokes aside, what's the obsession with turning them so damn hard? Is it the noise of it screaming it's head off?

All of the above. He he. Love it.

Seeing you're such a fan of 26s, I think you will like to know I am putting a t04z on mine shortly. More lag, just the way you like it, he he

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...