Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I haven't yet needed/been able to to rev mine past 7000, maybe I'm driving too soft Pete!

Would be interesting, but I doubt it can flow much more air than it currently does at that rpm on a big capacity, hence why dump mod didn't change much?

I use do take MI e to 8.5 or 9k.

whichever the limiter was set at.

went good.

I use do take MI e to 8.5 or 9k.

whichever the limiter was set at.

went good.

Before the build I could hit 10k with not trouble, because I was too slow to grab 2nd the first time I booted it :)

Even when the T78 was changed for the 6262 it was limited at 9.5k and no trouble getting there. I could never stop myself from testing it :/

Maybe there is also some cam adjustment for a bit more grunt as I do not need anymore than 7000rpm.

Can dialing the cams make much difference for response, there might be something left with a bit of tweaking ??

Still not responsive enough?

Shouldve gotten a M3 or C63 AMG with this amount of money.

Limiter a day keeps the doctor away. Gotta make sure its still there

I did not want another car, I like this one!

Dead a long time Mate , might as well do one really stupid thing in your life :)

That's why they limit them, so you can check it out when needed .

Should have got RIPS NZ to build you a 3.2L would still rev to 9000rpm :P

shoulda coulda woulda, but I didn't and what would I do with 9k , thats why I went this way. I did speak to them earlier but I still needed someone to pull it down and put it together and fix it if shit happens

No mate it will all be good, nice looking R that holds the road and goes pretty quick, early :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes:

Should have got RIPS NZ to build you a 3.2L would still rev to 9000rpm :P

Why?

The bottom end hasn't flung apart. The only possible reasons for the rpm limit are turbo restriction, or ignition issues, or potentially the cam settings.

All a bottom end has to do is stay in one piece, everything else actually makes the power.

  • Like 2

^^^^^^^

If I wanted big power I would have gone bigger bolt ons.

After I do the fuel mods and flex tune I can bump it up if I ever wanted without costing and arm and leg, because I have already spent the arm and leg :whistling:

^^^^^^^

If I wanted big power I would have gone bigger bolt ons.

After I do the fuel mods and flex tune I can bump it up if I ever wanted without costing and arm and leg, because I have already spent the arm and leg :whistling:

We aren't saying you did want big power. We are saying that the other guy is off point by suggesting another builder would have it rev to 9k with the same parts
  • Like 1

We aren't saying you did want big power. We are saying that the other guy is off point by suggesting another builder would have it rev to 9k with the same parts

I understood what you said and even the 2.6 that CRD built that was in my car , was strong and rev it's head off, or your head off.

I believe the 3.2 motor they built me is as good as most.

It seems more blokes want the top end bigger power and I understand why, it is exciting when it kicks in and when you have the revs up.

I thought about doing some Hill climb events once the car was 100% and watched some more hill climb vids this morning, that was the end of that idea, they take it pretty serious and rip! Do they have any geriatric events or do they have a different class for the mug drivers ??

Ummmm not necessarily.

Why not, I guess it is what you think is expensive, poke in a new suitable turbo and maybe different cams dial them in and tune , E85 and away you go. I wish :)

I am not talking a 900 HP car but it should be pretty good

I have better expectations for mine as it is set up now and if it does not meet them I will change whatever.

To get it going set it for 2000rpm. There's your response.

SET WHAT ?, I take it you are joking and pulling my leg ?

If not, Do a Pauline, please explain :/

You know that I know nothing much about modifying cars, only what I have been learning while on SAU. I know more now in 18 months than I ever knew about cars and that is not a lot.

Up until now, I just buy them, drive them, brakes down someone fixes them, it was easy, only had to have the NRMA card with you :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 2 spots that my exhaust guy joined the 2 pipes together  Made a big difference. I'm now able to live with it. I can make it louder if I want by removing the HKS caps.
    • Hi all, considering clutch upgrade to support 1130 engine hp from 1650cc injectors on e50 at 85% duty cycle (1650 x (11.85/14.7) x 85%). Narrows down to these three as they can be converted to use gm 26 spline input shaft if I ever want to use transmission with that input shaft (orc1000f and r3c easy/cheap just change center hub; tr2cd pricier must change clutch discs). Pricing orc1000f similar to tr2cd, r3c about usd 200 pricier. Orc1000f triple plate 200mm. Tr2cd twin plate 215mm. R3c triple plate 215mm. Claimed max torque : orc 1000f 723 lbs ft; tr2cd 800 lbs ft; r3c 1100 lbs ft. Why orc1000f triple plate but claims lower max torque vs tr2cd twins? Is orc1000f underrated? Any info maxing out these clutches? Info on street/traffic driveability/pedal feel? Thank you for any info on them.
    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
×
×
  • Create New...