Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah that was both turbos on 20psi. 

Picked Petes car up today and it drives ALOT nicer! 

Unfortunately the weather in Sydney is crap so no chance of giving her a squirt. The 1 time i did stab it to about half throttle in 2nd gear  (on a dry ish patch of road) at 3600-3800 she was turning the 265 AD08's lol. Its definitely alot perkier than it was with the 6266! 

I think with some seat time Pete is gunna love this this thing now! 

 

54 minutes ago, Mitchee said:

Been following this since the beginning. Good on you for sticking with it.

 

2 years to the day since you started this thread!

Cheers mate,2 years to the day!, shit , it seems like 10 years, lol

There have been some funny posts , both positive and negative but that is what this modding your car is all about, what you want from your car and F everyone else, haha

1 hour ago, Piggaz said:

Here is as it came in PTE at 20 psi in 98 vs EFR at 20 psi on 98.

Red = EFR 8374/1.05 TS

Blue = PTE 6266/0.84 TS

IMG_2747.PNG

The cars 6266 tune was off when it was dropped off and run for that base line test. There were other factors with the tune as well that I do not truly understand.

You will know on the weekend how it runs in comparison to how it did when I first picked it up from the original tune, you drove it!

As I understand it , I can run the car on 50/50 98 and 85 and not loose much performance,  it will still run around 437kw with plenty of grunt

I was in 2 cars with the 8374 , both had better throttle and transient response than mine with the 6266 , I have seen one of the dyno graphs and mine is  good in comparison. So if my car drives the equivalent to the other car with my graph, it will be mad

So I guess driving it is the real test and do not forget, the Dyno is a tuning tool as there are too many variances to take much notice of any of them, just a pretty picture :)

 

2 hours ago, fatz said:

3.2 at 20 psi nasty

 

though both would make more

You know whats in it Pete, "make more where ?" The turbo is close to maxed on the build , maybe 25kw ish, so , go BIG TURBO , it is a street car and defeats the purpose ??

It is built for running under 6000rpm . Turning wheels at 1/2 throttle in 2nd under 4000rpm seems tough enough

If I wanted 800 or 900 HP I would not have gone 9180 or something more laggy   ??

Anyway I am sure it will be great on the street, so :tongue:

9 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

You know whats in it Pete, "make more where ?" The turbo is close to maxed on the build , maybe 25kw ish, so , go BIG TURBO , it is a street car and defeats the purpose ??

It is built for running under 6000rpm . Turning wheels at 1/2 throttle in 2nd under 4000rpm seems tough enough

If I wanted 800 or 900 HP I would not have gone 9180 or something more laggy   ??

Anyway I am sure it will be great on the street, so 

Just to add something the Tuner said.

I would not read into the dyno response figures at low RPM too much as I had to run at a much higher ramp rate that I would like due to the torque splitting playing havoc on the dyno.  This is very common for GTR’s on dynos when the power output is very high.  The best comparison is to see how long it takes to reach x boost from x boost.  Not just RPM.  I can literally put the foot down and have boost on demand in your car with this turbo.  It is very sharp.

 

14 hours ago, Nismo 3.2ish said:

If I wanted 800 or 900 HP I would not have gone 9180 or something more laggy   ??

Anyway I am sure it will be great on the street, so :tongue:

Ignoring how a dyno reads and looking at just sheer airflow and engine efficiency, the odds are the car is making >800hp @ crank when the EFR8374 hits close to the 120,000rpm peak that Scotty limited the turbo at ;)

On 04/04/2017 at 7:18 PM, fatz said:

though both would make more

Dyno is just a tuning tool - the Gen2 6266 is well known in terms of potential, both from this car as well as on others, the 8374's abilities are also pretty well known.  The engine is a healthy 3.2litre, running over 20psi of boost and the turbo is spinning at 120,000rpm peak (by choice) and is using ethanol blended fuel.   It's fairly safe to say that the dyno number is academic, at a pressure ratio of 2.5 and 120,000rpm shaft speed that turbo is moving >75lb/min of air.  Even on petrol that is going to be >750hp @ crank if all is running well, let alone if he gets E85 in the tank.

There is every possibility the exact same setup on a different dyno with a different ramp rate would make more - even the same setup run "on kill" would on the same dyno and setup.

I am very much looking forward to real world impressions!

Edited by Lithium
4 hours ago, Scooby32 said:

Seat of the pants impressions compared to the 6266 Pete?

Mid range seems a bit doughey ? :10_wink:

 

 

 

The 8374 smoked the 6266.. 6266 felt like it "hit harder" probably because it was a solid 400+rpm off the pace in early gears compared to the EFR!

The EFR feels alot more linear in its delivery. But thats just because it has more torque everywhere else than it did before.

I done 2 other 1st - 4th gear pulls before that little clip that i made and pushed it a little harder up to 7500 and she doesn't let off!

The thing i like most is how the EFR's respond to throttle. 

For example i was in 4th gear cruising at roughly 2800rpm bent the big toe down a bit and by 3000 its looking to start hauling again. 

As you can see in the clip short shifting it is a breeze and it just snaps back to life instantly.

Pretty sure if you tromped this thing and short shifted it at 5000rpm it would boot you straight back up the ass as the needle snaps straight toward redline. 

This type of car might not suit everyones style but i can tell you not much would touch this thing on the street. 

Its a pretty special car & i feel very privileged to get a steer of such a beast! (ESPECIALLY BEFORE THE OWNER)

??? Pete!

I bet that wrinkly ass is in bed while im typing this post so only 1 more sleep and we will have her home for ya mate! 

Make sure our piss is cold and your recycle bin is empty for when we get there because this calls for a celebration! ?

 

 

Edited by Mick_o
Because edit
  • Like 1
4 hours ago, Mick_o said:

The 8374 smoked the 6266.. 6266 felt like it "hit harder" probably because it was a solid 400+rpm off the pace in early gears compared to the EFR!

The EFR feels alot more linear in its delivery. But thats just because it has more torque everywhere else than it did before.

I done 2 other 1st - 4th gear pulls before that little clip that i made and pushed it a little harder up to 7500 and she doesn't let off!

The thing i like most is how the EFR's respond to throttle. 

For example i was in 4th gear cruising at roughly 2800rpm bent the big toe down a bit and by 3000 its looking to start hauling again. 

As you can see in the clip short shifting it is a breeze and it just snaps back to life instantly.

Pretty sure if you tromped this thing and short shifted it at 5000rpm it would boot you straight back up the ass as the needle snaps straight toward redline. 

This type of car might not suit everyones style but i can tell you not much would touch this thing on the street. 

Its a pretty special car & i feel very privileged to get a steer of such a beast! (ESPECIALLY BEFORE THE OWNER)

??? Pete!

I bet that wrinkly ass is in bed while im typing this post so only 1 more sleep and we will have her home for ya mate! 

Make sure our piss is cold and your recycle bin is empty for when we get there because this calls for a celebration! ?

 

 

Hahaha, funny Mick, but my wrinkled arse is up typing this while yours is sound asleep and I have read some other threads I follow already!

I think you have driven the car enough to make those statements , just watching the needle head north from 3000rpm is a fair indication that what you said is on the mark. I am looking forward to moving the seat forward and giving it a run as soon as you get here , you two can grab a beer and chill .

I bought an ATS triple plate clutch as a back up, might swap it over and sell the Coopermix C-Spec twin before I do damage to it , it has been great ?

Bin is empty, beer is cold and Bourbon is aging as I type  , look forward to see you mad f*****ers :)

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...