Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I have been searching and searching for the correct turbo to put on but cannot find it..

I have a rb25det, has your usual bolt ons but has stock internals..

I am looking for the best/quickest spooling turbo for skidding/drifting, I do not want to hi-flow the current as I am looking at going a 6boost top mounted setup with a external wastegate..

What would be the best turbo to run, the car is only driven 2-3 times a week but gets driven hard when it does.

Opinions on the GTX3076r,GT3076r and GT3071r?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455469-best-turbo-for-rb25det/
Share on other sites

There is a whole f**king thread dedicated to RB25 dyno results that is 53 pages long.

How about looking at that for a start and seeing some different results from other people's setups.

In the end the choice is yours personally anyway so someone could have an entirely different opinion on each turbo.

A turbo doesn't have to be that large for drifting/skidding so you wouldn't even need one as large as you mentioned because you want response.

Look through the RB25 turbo thread and guaranteed you will find something you like/want.

  • Like 1

HKS GT-RS for 250-260rwkw perfect for drifting on 98.
300rwkw ++ on e85..

HKS 2835 PRO S FOR 280RWKW+

These two twos are the most responsive on the market for these power figures.
Overall awesome power curve aswell.

Jesse Streeter just sent me A GTRS Delivered for $2600.

Cheapest you'll find anywhere.

  • Like 1

If you are going to be using it internally gated bolton turbo and expect the most response out of it I do recommend our ATR43SS1PU, this turbo performs the identical way as the standard 21U high flow, it makes 20psi by 3400RPM, which is your factory turbo's response that peeks around 310rwkws on E85 fuel or about 265rwkws on Pump.

But if you are only looking to keep it as a factory bolt on temporary terms and expect a huge jump in HP after external gate and high mount is installed, I would recommend our ATR43G4SAT turbo, This turbo has similar response to a 3076 that peeks 20psi by 3800RPM, capable of making around 312rwkws on pump 98 fuel using street legal return flow cooler, and good enough to peek 420rwkws on a high mount E85 setup.

Both turbos has detachable rear dump adaptor, so it can be high mounted or low mounted without too much trouble on the exhaust piping.

I've got a Oxford dictionary pages worth of dyno reading with different turbo combinations specifically engineered for a Rb25det engine, you are welcome to give me a ring to go through couple of more specific configurations for your needs.

if money is no problem, then GTX3076 will be a light switch at 4000rpm and will take you upto 400kw's, but silly not to get a hypergear, use the money saved for tyres...

Edited by AngryRB

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...