Jump to content
SAU Community

Tial Style External Wastegates

boothy_99

By boothy_99,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know if they produced fake Synapese Synchronix gates? Anyway to decipher if one of them is a fake or not?

The price. I think mine was about $550 for 50mm

If you want to be sure you can buy direct from Synapse Engineering:

http://synapseengineering.pinnaclecart.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=1&pg=1

  • 1 year later...
dorifticon Community Regular

dorifticon

Posted
Posted

Hey all just resurrecting a zombie thread from last year to look for a bit of advice.

I have a split flange t4 manifold for an rb26 and it has provision for two 38mm v-band external wastegates.

I don't want to cheap out on the wastegate (or boost control in general) as I spent a fair bit of money building the motor itself.

So far the only reputable brand that seems to have a suitable wastegate is the TiAL.  I have seen them priced in the AUD$300's.

My questions are:

1) Are there any other reputable brands as an alternative to TiAL that do a 38mm v-band (turbosmart only seem to have flanged items)

2) who is the best priced supplier from whom to get a genuine item in Australia?  I'm a bit wary of ebay as some of the replicas look very convincing.

dorifticon Community Regular

dorifticon

Posted
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, NISR32.5 said:

I have the 40mm turbo smart Vband gates. They aren't that much bigger than the 38mm tials.
I might have mine for sale soon as I just bought another car with a full setup. Still brand new in a box of your looking for some

Will it be possible to fit 40mm onto the 38mm manifold flanges without any issues? I haven't used v-bands before so not really sure how they work.  Don't want to have any sealing issues.

When you say they aren't that much bigger, do you mean the physical dimensions of the thing? Do they have ports for water cooling as well?

 

Edited by dorifticon
NISR32.5 Rising Star

NISR32.5

Posted
Posted

Hey mate, not sure if the 40's will fit onto 38 flanges. I'm sure someone else here will know though.

Yes they aren't much bigger in physical size, that was the main reason I bought them. Tial prices are now through the roof so I got the 40mm turbo smarts for a better price.

  • 2 weeks later...
dorifticon Community Regular

dorifticon

Posted
Posted

has anyone had any experience with go fast bits?

 

http://www.gfb.com.au/products/wastegates/ex38-38mm-v-band-style-external-wastegate-by-gfb?searchtype=autosearch

 

Bit concerned the max boost pressure appears to be 22psi, am currently running 21 and the motor's been built for a lot more.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...