Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fellow sau members

My car has a million problems need help solving one my old r33 did the same I just sold the thing without fixing it this one does it all the time

Problem

When the cars hot after a while I don't mean running temp more like drive for half an hour. My car seems to all of a sudden loose power after a quarter throttle

Things I noticed are the exhaust note hangs sounds like the car is struggling (which it is) it sounds like it's slowly revving out but takes forever

Natural instinct makes me back off but if I keep the throttle down it really goes nowhere!

Since I have been swamped with other things it's been put off for a while until I get the cars other issues fixed

It's really annoying and I can't overtake anyone with the power of a charade

While I'm writing a thread does anyone know why it idles high? 1100 rpm.

Thanks in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456157-problem-when-cars-warm-rb20det/
Share on other sites

Yeah I'll just replace is. Is this in reference to my idle issue or nugget when hot issue

(Please note that my thermostat is new and the car gets up to "running temperature" quickly it's drives longer then say 30 minutes sometimes longer before it does it.

(It is accumulative so if I do a lot of short trips it still does it)

Both - Idle and Nugget

Edit: Basically the ECTS (Water coolant Sensor) is sending poor info to the ECU which is getting info from other sensors as well.

By the way it should cost around $40-50 and you can change it yourself

Edited by Sinista32

20+ years old car now man, things start to get old/worn/brittle. Start slowly gathering parts and replace them (e.g. coilpacks + harness + from performance-wise, throw new BCPR6ES-11 spark plugs in as well).

Having a standard engine is a bonus, less shit to worry about when diagnosing.

I miss my black GTS-t :(

The larger the gap the better/bigger the spark therefore better the burn :)

With a stock car running average boost your best off with 1.1mm on your spark plugs.

When you modify and wind up the wick wait until you get issues prior to reducing the gap down.

There wont be any issues running a smaller gap with new splitfires BUT it's not optimum. See first line ^^

Edited by Sinista32

Cheers sinista sounds like a plan I'll give them a shot

And cheers got that jiffo

I'm not the smartest with a multimeter so how exactly do I set it up to measure the ohms and I'm obviously unplugging the sensor correct?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...