Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Are the rubber mounts an option for road going cars or is there a reason I'd choose those over the spherical unit for a track car?



http://www.hard-race.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_29_355&product_id=418



VS



http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/nissan-castor-arms



Spherical work a bazzillion times better. Not really legal on the road, so sticklers for legality* would avoid them. For a track car, there is no argument for not using spherical.

*I'm a stickler for legality in most respects, but I used spherical bearing caster arms on my road car because of how much better they are, coupled with the unlikelihood of them even being noticed in a roadside pullover situation.

Only thing about spherical joints (apart from cheapo ones sometimes flogging out very quickly in certain applications) is that they generally aren't allowed in IPRA - if you decide to head in that direction. If it's just a track toy / WTAC toy then go your hardest.

The beauty of spherical joints is that they let the suspension move the way it was intended, so under load your geometry remains where it's supposed to be.

Thanks, not an issue for me thankfully.

I had someone tell me that ISC are junk, thoughts?

I have ISC rear camber arms and they "seem" fine.

The car doesn't do a lot of K's each year.

I didn't really wanna pay $200 for caster arms.

Choose wisely mate,,, I have seen factory radius rods break over time and wis-bang spherical ones snap as well.

Whilst the Spherical ones are more direct they have no give whatsoever,,,sooner or later they will fail.

Lifeing both would be the idea,,but the question if for how long.

Cheers

Neil.

Lifeing both?

Scheduled replacement interval. Work out how long you expect it to last, then replace them at an appropriate time (preferably before they fail). unfortunately, you need some failure history to be able to work out an appropriate life.

It is possible to crack test the items that are likely to snap (I have an MPI crack tester) and you can inspect the spherical bearings for wear. The latter is an easy check you can do, but unless you have access to the right people / equipment, crack testing becomes dearer than outright replacement.

Edited by warps

Ahh, my car is lucky to cover a few thousand ks a year - track ks granted, but still.

I assume inspecting the spherical bearing is as simple as giving it a yank and seeing what freeplay there is?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A quick google, and some E39 users have found pulling my sensor out/apart and cleaning it alleviates their issue. Then get the oil warning to go off, and once it is off (from the sensor saying it was unhappy) some find they can just unplug it and it is happy to just keep going now. Maybe give it a crack? If you can actually pull the sensor apart, hit it with some electrical contact cleaner.
    • Yep. In the E39 it's slightly different than the others. Honestly I'd just leave it but every time I drive the car it tells me oil is low and that just makes me check the dipstick. It is a BMW Afterall and it tries to expel it's own oil regularly.  Thankfully it's not like my E90 that has no dipstick at all so you just gotta trust it. 
    • Was that also a typo? $350?! Just typing "BMW oil level sensor" and prices start out a lot more sanely than $350. I'm guessing it's a sensor used in one low volume model only or something?
    • They kept the product number the same, so we "didn't pick it up when packing your order". If you packed the order, you clearly saw the box wasn't Hella...
    • Actually, the equivalent skyline part is both cheaper and simpler, maybe you should come back from the dark side?
×
×
  • Create New...