Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i'm about to buy the built engine form my friend.. the head is ported, forged bottom, made 650whp on a mustang dyno with a PTE6466 ( I believe... or is it 6266? wtv lol!)

Problem is I was going to build mine and the build included a TOMEI pump and RIPS sump ( already bought). So, I spoke with my mechanic and he doesn't like the idea of doing that swap.

Reason being '' I know this engine run perfect and has no problem AS IS, i would hate to swap the nismo pump/greddy extension sump, install the tomei pump and rips sump and found out you have an oil problem or timing issues since we need to undo all that too. I would prefer to do a drop-in affair. ''

Your though ? Car will be ''spirited driving'' and see the drag strip on occasion. ( I wish to do some lapping/time attack, but i think it will never happens honestly..)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456324-nismogreddy-sump-vs-tomeirips-sump/
Share on other sites

Swap the pump!

Seen multiple failures with NISMO pumps (N1). If he cannot match the timing during the swap then get someone who knows what they are doing to do it.

If its out now and you have the pump its a no brainer because when you run a bearing you will be so annoyed.

nismo pump and N1 are different items. The nismo pump has stronger gear than n1. N1 pump is 200 bucks. Nismo pump is 700. Its fine how it is, no need to really change in my opinion. I don't think he would have to overfill the sump since he has the sump extension already on there. That is the point of the extension, more oil.

N1 pump = 15010-24U01

Nismo pump = 15010-RR580

Edited by JTCC

Reason being '' I know this engine run perfect and has no problem AS IS, i would hate to swap the nismo pump/greddy extension sump, install the tomei pump and rips sump and found out you have an oil problem or timing issues since we need to undo all that too. I would prefer to do a drop-in affair. ''

Yep just keep going with what you have I reckon. This build feels like it's been about 10 years in the making, no point changing route now when I'm sure you've bought most of what you need?

What are the issues with N1 pumps? do they tend to smash the gears like the factory pumps? I'm about to use one on a new engine and I'm thinking it'd be a good idea to use some billet gears for it

I don't know what the issues are. There are stories that there were a bunch of knock offs at one time. My Rb30 has an N1 pump - no issues after about 30,000km including track but my rev limit is 7000 and I don't do do-nuts or any limiter bashing. A local engine builder who does a lot of race engines won't use them so I guess he has had a few failures but I don't know the details.

Guys, I'm talking about the true Nismo pump ( if it was a N1, i would've call it a N1 pump) its the Nismo selling close to 1000$. I just thought the 3piece of the tomei was a more solid design and flow a bit more oil so i went ahead and dropped the coin on it.

Rips vs the greddy= about the same amount of oil extra cc, but the rips sit higher so less chance of rubbing since I drive in the city a lot.

But then, why change a winning formula right ? lol

The gears are sintered and they are more prone to breaking. have a search

And the thickness of the ring gear in an N1 pump is less due to the extra tooth compared to a standard pump IIRC.

.....a genuine Nissan N1 pump ruined my first motor when the gears broke, I replaced it with a Nismo pump and had no issues with it, now have a Nitto pump on my RB30, and so far so good :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...