Jump to content
SAU Community

Final Word On Hicas Delete


Recommended Posts

I've read conflicting information in regards to removing HICAS on an R33:

-Some say they removed the HICAS ECU and lost power steering.

-Some say they kept the ECU and lost variable-weight power steering.

-Some say they kept the ECU and retained variable steering weight.

I'm going to throw in a lock bar soon, but I want to make sure my steering (variable weight) stays the same.

Obviously I will keep the HICAS ECU and just de-pin the warning light.

So is it as simple as throwing in a lock bar and leaving the ECU plugged in?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i noticed below certain speed my steering wheels different to when it is above certain speeds.

one is firmer and tighter the other feels like theres no feedback and loose.

any suggestions what the issue could be?>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From what I gather, If I remove the HICAS ECU etc altogether...will I end up with single stage power steering and no speed assist? Or will I lose all power steering?

I've tried searching but nothing really matched what I was after, and didn't want to start a new topic yet. Car has already had all wiring removed, auto sparky was at my workshop today to get moving on the new loom.

Car is being fully rewired with basic loom and stand alone haltech, and have cusco drag rods in the back.

This is in a R33 BTW.

Edited by R31 drift pig
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unplug, Remove, put a lock bar in. Simple.

I've already done this. There's no wiring at all in the car, drag links are in.

My question was pertaining to what happens to power assistance without any HICAS wiring/ECU/Anything, without making a new thread.

Question seemed relevant given the topic title.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a solenoid in the rack controlled by the HICAS ECU. Ive had power steering issues when me HICAS ECU played up. Replaced it and steering went back to how it should be.

I have a Lock bar and I just pulled the bulb out and have had no issues besides the one i mentioned above. But this could have happened with or without HICAS, its a 20 year old car, i expect these things

You dont want to lose the power steering assist from the HICAS ECU by just removing it. Its way to heavy at low speeds (parking etc)

There is a mod i think you can do where you remove the ECU and put 12v on one of the wires (which i assume goes to the rack solenoid) but you will just have full power steer assist this way

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the obvious thing to do is to look into other Nissans of the same era that had variable speed power steer and no HICAS, and work out what little box of smarts was installed to do it. Grab one, wire it in in place of the HICAS CU, and enjoy all the benefits of installing the whole HICAS system in the skip, while still having nice PS. It can't be too hard.

By the same token, it's absolutely no trouble to keep the HICAS CU either. Let's face it. I did it 15 years ago and it's still sitting there under the parcel shelf, minding its own business, making my steering feel right and trying desperately to make the rear wheels move.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've already done this. There's no wiring at all in the car, drag links are in.

My question was pertaining to what happens to power assistance without any HICAS wiring/ECU/Anything, without making a new thread.

Question seemed relevant given the topic title.

you will have permannent heavy steering because the solonoid on the rack has no voltage being applied to it so will put no preload on plunger in rack. Easiest solution is take out the solonoid in the rack and preload with 5cent coins until you have the feel you want in the steering. I use 2 5cent coins in my drift car and feel is good similar to what you would have if you were doing 100ks with ecu controlling it. So to adjust simply more shims make it lighter less shims heavier.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

you will have permannent heavy steering because the solonoid on the rack has no voltage being applied to it so will put no preload on plunger in rack. Easiest solution is take out the solonoid in the rack and preload with 5cent coins until you have the feel you want in the steering. I use 2 5cent coins in my drift car and feel is good similar to what you would have if you were doing 100ks with ecu controlling it. So to adjust simply more shims make it lighter less shims heavier.

Awesome. Exactly what I was after!

Edited by R31 drift pig
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, I need to get this HKS SLD attached to my stock ECU because I've now got the German autobahn and faster European circuits to contend with.  The car is a manual 2dr ER34 with an AT ECU and I've realised the AT ECU has two pins for speed sensor signals: Pin 29: Vehicle speed sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 2) Pin *58: Output shaft rotation sensor signal (Vehicle speed sensor 1) - *RB25DET A/T model only Before I go butchering this harness, is anyone sure of which pin is the correct one for signal adjustment? The attached document from HKS indicates pin 29 but I found this situation mentioned in the following thread on a different forum (R34 GTT Auto Trans Speed Cut Problem | Zerotohundred) mentioning pin 58 needing to be altered by member zephuros, albeit it seems to be for an RSM-GP and the info appears to be old.  R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-2.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-3.pdf R34_All_Workshop_Manual-pages-1.pdf HKS SLD Vehicle Pin out P59-P70 ER34-pages.pdf
    • Embrace the freedom of casual encounters on the best dating app in town! Verified Maidens Superlative Сasual Dating
    • Slimline sub on the rear parcel shelf is doable. Pioneer TS-WX140DA is only 70mm high.   
    • People like Johnny Dose Bro might be laughing at my post because I accidentally added 100mm to my numbers. 350-355 is indeed the lower limit. 450 is off-road Skyline spec.
    • What is the "compromise" that you think will happen? Are you thinking that something will get damaged? The only things you have to be concerned about with spherical jointed suspension arms are; Arguments with the constabulary wrt their legality (they are likely to be illegal for road use without an engineering certificatation, and that may not be possible to obtain). A lot more NVH transmitted through to the passengers (which is hardly a concern for those with a preference for good handling, anyway). Greatly increased inspection and maintenance requirements (see above points, both).   It is extremely necessary to ask what car you are talking about. Your discussion on strut tops, for example, would be completely wrong for an R chassis, but be correct for an S chassis. R32s have specific problems that R33/4 do not have. Etc. I have hardened rubber bushes on upper rear control arms and traction rods. Adjustable length so as to be able to set both camber and bump steer. You cannot contemplate doing just the control arms and not the traction arms. And whatever bushing you have in one you should have in the other so that they have similar characteristics. Otherwise you can get increased oddness of behaviour as one bushing flexes and the other doesn't, changing the alignment between them. I have stock lower rear arms with urethane bushes. I may make changes here, these are are driven by the R32's geometry problems, so I won't discuss them here unless it proves necessary. I have spherical joints in the front caster rods. I have experienced absolutely no negatives and only positives from doing so. They are massively better than any other option. I have sphericals in the FUCAs, but this is driven largely by the (again) R32 specific problems with the motion of those arms. I just have to deal with the increased maintenance required. Given how much better the front end behaves with the sphericals in there.....I'd probably be tempted to go away from my preference (which is not to have sphericals on a road car, for 2 of the 3 reasons in the bulleted list above), just to gain those improvements. And so my preference for not using sphericals (in general) on a road car should be obvious. I use them judiciously, though, as required to solve particular problems.
×
×
  • Create New...