Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,


Trying to find a misfire in my freshly rebuilt rb26.


The car misfires from idle to 3000rpm ish (haven't taken it higher)


What I have done to pinpoint the miss is


Unplug each coil pack (the exhaust note changes with each one unpluged)


Unplug each injector (same results as coil packs)


New plugs


New Crank angle sensor


Compression test showed all 6 cylinders even (148psi)


Sprayed carby cleaner around the place looking for vacuum leaks


Injectors have just been professionally cleaned


Unplugged the air flow meters. Car seems to idle smoother but misfires the same once I build revs up a little.


Not sure where to go from here?


Advice appreciated!!


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456886-freshly-built-rb26-misfire/
Share on other sites

You should try changing the coils. Just as a process of illumination. Check injector plus make sure thats fine with a node light. Should be one of those. Last resort could be a broken ring. Need to do a leak down test. Wit broken ring its tricky. I had one years upon years ago but had compression.

Cheers for the replies.

I should mention the issue started after it was assembled then went away. It had it's time on the dyno and has started playing up again.
The motor probably has about 50kms on it.

The Valve seats where cut. I'm using Tomei Type B springs.

Timing is spot on.

Going to try igniter and coils packs from a mate.

Cheers

What I don't understand is why I can't pinpoint the missing cylinder via unplugging the coil packs 1 by 1.

cause of its valve springs it will be all cylinders

There was a thread only a month or so back where he had a missfire issue on a built engine and it turn out to be springs, also have seen it on about 3 other cars

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...