Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,


Trying to find a misfire in my freshly rebuilt rb26.


The car misfires from idle to 3000rpm ish (haven't taken it higher)


What I have done to pinpoint the miss is


Unplug each coil pack (the exhaust note changes with each one unpluged)


Unplug each injector (same results as coil packs)


New plugs


New Crank angle sensor


Compression test showed all 6 cylinders even (148psi)


Sprayed carby cleaner around the place looking for vacuum leaks


Injectors have just been professionally cleaned


Unplugged the air flow meters. Car seems to idle smoother but misfires the same once I build revs up a little.


Not sure where to go from here?


Advice appreciated!!


Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456886-freshly-built-rb26-misfire/
Share on other sites

You should try changing the coils. Just as a process of illumination. Check injector plus make sure thats fine with a node light. Should be one of those. Last resort could be a broken ring. Need to do a leak down test. Wit broken ring its tricky. I had one years upon years ago but had compression.

Cheers for the replies.

I should mention the issue started after it was assembled then went away. It had it's time on the dyno and has started playing up again.
The motor probably has about 50kms on it.

The Valve seats where cut. I'm using Tomei Type B springs.

Timing is spot on.

Going to try igniter and coils packs from a mate.

Cheers

What I don't understand is why I can't pinpoint the missing cylinder via unplugging the coil packs 1 by 1.

cause of its valve springs it will be all cylinders

There was a thread only a month or so back where he had a missfire issue on a built engine and it turn out to be springs, also have seen it on about 3 other cars

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...