Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was reading through the club reg info

And I'm curious as to who I see to do a

vass? Vehicle assesment signatory scheme

And what's involved with the sign off?

Anyone else club registered there highly modified

Cars lately??

  • 2 months later...

Make sure you get it done if your going club reg.

I have a Hwy patrol mate/regular customer who talked me out of getting club rego.

Apparently their squad pick on them and view it as a reason to pull it over and go over it, looking for something out of place due to club regos being abused by some with modded cars.

He told me to leave mine on normal rego as they had less reason to suspect something, as long as it looks in line from the outside they wont have a reason to pick on it if im driving normally.

so if you car is modified and club rego now..

you still need a full RWC and a engineers certs for any mods.

however unlike regular rego you now get a "M" club rego plate which lets every cop on the road know your car is modified.

When i asked the Hwy patrol mate, it was a week before the new scheme was starting, i was looking to jump on the bandwagon and take advantage of the old system slackness.

Even he personally had a car on club rego (old system), in his case he only took it out a few times a year so he took advantage of the cheap rego.

He told me the new system changes not much in their eyes last i spoke to him (lately), its still club rego or a mod plate, either way its a plate that they see as "not normal", like waving a red flag at a bull, or baiting a shark.

I always have a laugh when he comes over, GTR is parked in the corner, PC Desk top screen is of a identical looking GTR launching at the drags, last time he was over he had this look like he was going to pull out his gun and start firing at the PC monitor. :)

He tells me they have one or two particular Hwy patrol officers at their branch who specialize in Skylines, they went out of their way to know them like the back of their hands, can spot a mod from a mile away. (so he says)

One thing for sure is they certainly don't like them, especially in young hands.

He tells me they have one or two particular Hwy patrol officers at their branch who specialize in Skylines, they went out of their way to know them like the back of their hands, can spot a mod from a mile away. (so he says)

But then their effortless research leads them to fall in love with skylines...

FnF8: Hwy Patrol...script is ready

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

When i asked the Hwy patrol mate, it was a week before the new scheme was starting, i was looking to jump on the bandwagon and take advantage of the old system slackness.

Even he personally had a car on club rego (old system), in his case he only took it out a few times a year so he took advantage of the cheap rego.

He told me the new system changes not much in their eyes last i spoke to him (lately), its still club rego or a mod plate, either way its a plate that they see as "not normal", like waving a red flag at a bull, or baiting a shark.

I always have a laugh when he comes over, GTR is parked in the corner, PC Desk top screen is of a identical looking GTR launching at the drags, last time he was over he had this look like he was going to pull out his gun and start firing at the PC monitor. :)

He tells me they have one or two particular Hwy patrol officers at their branch who specialize in Skylines, they went out of their way to know them like the back of their hands, can spot a mod from a mile away. (so he says)

One thing for sure is they certainly don't like them, especially in young hands.

thats some well informed insight. i guess this game of cat and mouse is an endless circle :dry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...