Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get a PRP coil kit, billet thingo, braided wiring, and fits under the stock coil cover.

I'm running them, jammed in a bit more dwell and shit is lit. Don't go with the other ones on the market, you can't run the stock cover without trimming.

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Get a PRP coil kit, billet thingo, braided wiring, and fits under the stock coil cover.

I'm running them, jammed in a bit more dwell and shit is lit. Don't go with the other ones on the market, you can't run the stock cover without trimming.

You mean this kit?D65C945F-7056-43F4-BF78-A753619B610D.thumb.jpeg.507f2c01f04f9f32b99ca75180d4fc53.jpeg

On to one of the boxes, the front lip was painted when I bought the car and the paint was cracked. I wrapped it in pretend carbon fiber vinyl wrap 62C49CB4-58D2-4585-9C0A-174C3AB1E284.thumb.jpeg.7e706706254571bc121e8e80bb925b13.jpegbut that wasn’t going to cut it anymore so off it came and on went a brand new unpainted genuine lip A1A6128A-2832-404A-B77B-B24B4BCF6C3B.thumb.jpeg.b32d979f23fa296fc935811cd04d1454.jpeg

  • Like 4
10 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I don’t think it’s far away now, just have a lot of fiddly things left that I’m working through 

Is setting up rolling anti-lag one of the fiddly things?

  • Haha 1
21 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Not at the moment considering we all know the reputation of the factory oil pump 

Haha, well this is how it can turn our with Spool Billet gears (version 1, apparently version 2 fixed the issue).

I'm back on a new N1 pump with v2.0 of the gears, so far still have oil pressure and clean oil.

20190104_180149.thumb.jpg.f6f02650812137c4a0e2f83445f3ba9d.jpg

Yeah was "supposed" to be a budget clean up, hence I went with the spool option, nek minnit decided to put in rods and pistons, so much for budget. If I was going to build it from the start would have just put in a Nitto pump.

Oh well, life goes on (will swap for 335i F30) lol.

Hurry up and get your car to Roll Racing.

Mounted the pump and then plumbed the boot down to the bulk heard fitting D9B6B54E-EEBF-40EC-828C-7C36F1E966D6.thumb.jpeg.feeb00b87c5870258e5d57f55f987934.jpegthen the lines go from the bulk head fittings to the steering rack E83B7E9F-795D-489E-AA83-132C34713C18.thumb.jpeg.35241731cc2df44a6034c4e3b1fa9a9f.jpeg

have since been wired up it, filled it and tested it for leaks and it all works really well 

It feels exactly how it did with the mechanical pump cause all the pressure adjustment is done on the rack. It takes about 10 seconds when you start the car to get to pressure and then it’s awesome 

would definitely be an option for those people 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...