Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

4 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

The warm and fuzzy feeling that you overpaid for what is a luke warm stock engine.

You'd have to have rocks in your head to pay those prices for a 2.6L. Honestly!!!

 

Hows your stroked motor going again Paul?

Just now, Anfanee said:

Hows your stroked motor going again Paul?

Perfectly fine mate, almost ready to go again (didn't know the engine had a problem) ?.

The Nismo donks still run cast pistons (atleast to my knowledge). What is so good about them? What exactly are you paying these horrendous prices for? If not stroking, jam a good condition stocker in it and go again. 

Nismo stuff, (bar a few items... diffs and clutches) generally is merely warmed up stock/basic stuff with a crazy price tag. No if, buts or maybe's about it.

  • Like 5
2 minutes ago, Piggaz said:

Perfectly fine mate, almost ready to go again (didn't know the engine had a problem) ?.

The Nismo donks still run cast pistons (atleast to my knowledge). What is so good about them? What exactly are you paying these horrendous prices for? If not stroking, jam a good condition stocker in it and go again. 

Nismo stuff, (bar a few items... diffs and clutches) generally is merely warmed up stock/basic stuff with a crazy price tag. No if, buts or maybe's about it.

Haha im just poking fun.

Alas my comment in that i agree that most of the time its just a sticker.

I was just saying i didn't want a stroked motor, i'm not chasing HP. Nor did i want another motor that is over 20 years old in my car. After going through everything to get said "new" condition motor, i would have just bought a nismo motor and been on the road within a day. 

TBH what's the point of stroking a 2.6? Just do an Rb30. Hell Stroke that. Either way getting a "new" motor costs quite a bit of dosh.  

frankly, in the current and likely future market a good condition car heavy with Nismo parts is probably a better investment than bitcoin....

also, if you are in a country with no experience or parts for these motors there is a real argument for japanese crate motors. Australia is a very different situation

  • Like 5

I agree with Duncan. We dont have GTR historical race shops over here lol. All we have is word of mouth. There are a few shops that know what they are doing for sure. But USA is quite large. Be prepared to trailer your car long distances. Luckily I live in the center of the country. So I'm half way to everywhere lol. I know rebuilding a engine isn't some crazy new science. But everyone does things a little different. Plenty of shops have their little secrets and I'm sure Omori knows a few and for some reason, the rb26 seems to be that kind of engine where there is all kinds of he said she said "mods" that make it "better".

 

First I have to say that I definitely understand that nismo stuff is a little pricey for what you are actually getting. They are not claiming to be the best at anything. But I still have never had a nismo part that didn't fit like a glove. The hardest part I would say was the inlet pipes, but that is just a tight cramped area to begin with. Once it was all in etc, it fell together perfectly. Mine did not hit the hood or the intake box that they supply spacers for just in case. They pre-warn you about ANY fitment issues saying you may have to cut here or here. They did their homework and testing for you and put it in the directions (that is for all of their parts). You are paying for all of that. Generally, nismo makes a nice product and its kind of a OEM+ factory based item.

I would probably only do a nismo crate engine if I lived in Japan. Its more of an in house thing where you sit down and get the build you want. I hear omori engines are very smooth and responsive. They have there own tricks, dont let the little spec sheet on the internet fool you. They've had their rolls in GT, touring cars and super taikyu. They are not for the monster, I'm trying to be the coolest 800+ hp build with big single EFR turbo type people. Its just a clean responsive 450-500 hp build all with genuine/nismo parts and documentation. Its a street car that can be taken to the circuit type stuff. But realistically Omori also does full chassis and interior refresh. You can basically get a brand new GTR. Your wallet is the limit. Not enough people read their blog. I still have not seen anyone come close to Omori cleanliness. Not saying they are the best of everything, but its more so of having the experience and a factory backed shop. You know without a doubt the work is being done correctly and to spec if not exceeding. But again, you pay for it.

There are other nissan based dealerships that do great work also. Prince Tokyo for instance.  They do general maintenance on joe blow micra, or full out GTR race builds.

 

Now me personally, I'm only shooting for whatever my turbos allow safely on 93 AKI pump gas (98 ron). I'm suspecting 500hp to be the absolute max. Which is why I'm not touching the internals until I absolutely have to. But I will try to take every precaution to help longevity that I can. I think tuning will be the main factor. 

  • Like 2
  • 6 months later...

Ok been a while, been busy with work etc. Was out of country for about 3 months lol. Finally got some time to get some stuff done.

Lets see here, got a few new items.

Reinik cam cover baffles

hOwqddN.jpg

Nismo carbon mirror cover

HaL18yJ.jpg

Nismo floor bar

ll0VTd0.jpg

Omori Factory shift and ebrake boots

MymiNoN.jpg

 

dropped the rear subframe to commence restore/updates.

6pKZCaE.jpg

disassembled the diff

nOJMSQC.jpg

Had pieces cleaned/powdercoated

iv78jc1.jpg

The fun job of pressing in the Nismo bushings and new hicas ball joints

1DjFlFd.jpg

ONFQAjo.jpg

PLu4hRR.jpg

AUp4MFB.jpg

 

Nismo GT Pro LSD put in. Sadly, I need new shims, I was at .002 mm of backlash. 3 thousandths to tight. It calls for .005-.007

xYMq4p9.jpg

 

Time for subframe reassembly with nismo arms and new OEM hardware. Sadly, I ordered the wrong 5 lug hubs so they wouldn't fit into my new wheel bearings. Working on getting that straightened out. I ordered the NA version, when I needed the turbo version. Dumb mistake on my part. So the old hub assemblies are in for now.

fuWyRKD.jpg

21wMKyM.jpg

eJSnl1a.jpg

DDVhSXT.jpg

FCAgj4x.jpg

Still have more stuff to do before its all finished up and ready to bolt back up. But here is the progress so far. Will update soon hopefully lol.

  • Like 3
On 3/9/2018 at 4:20 PM, Anonymouse said:

Occupation = Lotto winner or Bank robber....lol

Parts not cheap.

Looking good :1310_thumbsup_tone1:

Lol it's not to bad. There are some pretty extreme builds out there. I'm just more of an OEM+ kind of guy. I want to keep the car a r32 GTR so to speak. Not trying to make some track monster. I want to keep the car somewhat relevant to what it was in its era. But still improve it in minor ways.

  • Like 1

I order from the nissan dealership. Cheapest I've found anywhere. No international shipping either lol. I either just type the part I'm looking for in Google and see what pops up. Usually some place will have a part number listed. Or I find the diagrams and look up part numbers. If you know someone with nissan Fast, they can look up part numbers for you by typing in your vin.

Edited by JTCC

Ok have some more updates.

Used a new shim and the diff landed at .005 inch. Was happy about that lol. Thats the bare minimum but it will work. Tested the contact patch on the teeth and it was in the center. So should be good.

lYjXJQQ.jpg

d7u04Aq.jpg

Then it was time to rebuild the rear axles with new boots and grease. Very messy job, so not many pics lol. OEM boot kits are great

bkSJmWk.jpg

rxcD98I.jpg

r0mrKov.jpg

slopped in some new grease

uC1KKHp.jpg

So with those done it was time to reassemble.

WeX9bFW.jpg

oVwXcEn.jpg

Assembled the 1000 piece sway bar endlinks lol

nr8Xg4b.jpg

All back together. Bled the Attesa etc.

G73rhmG.jpg

g7jE8Et.jpg

dzKKdmX.jpg

back on the gound! Always a good feeling haha
nFyhdEL.jpg

Its not completely done, still waiting on a few odds and ends. Lost some nuts, forgot some nuts haha. All on order. Little things tend to happen along the way.

Got a new battery. Kind of hard shape and size to find over here in the USA. We have much bigger posts than the little japanese ones. But I managed to find a battery shop that carried something that will maintain OEM appearance with no work needed. Even though its a Chinese battery. But it seems more than adequate. I bought a nice new battery charger/tender also, so it should be ok.

Very close to OEM size
Ra5Jh9J.jpg

023PVXm.jpg

Also picked up a new washer bottle. Which happens to be a nismo heritage part. They only make the N1 so it has one spray motor. But I dont use my wipers or washer fluid. So it didn't bother me much, I just wanted some new plastic. I already have the overflow reservoir and the old washer bottle was throwing off the look lol.

Ee2Smw7.jpg

Should have a few more random updates next week hopefully. Waiting on parts.

Edited by JTCC
  • Like 2

Few more things while waiting for the other stuff to ship in.

Got to move the car to pull it on the lift. All I have to say is, the nismo LSD is very talkative. It pops, bangs, chirps etc. Probably will break it in and move onto some Motul fluid as I've been recommended. Need something with some friction modifier to quiet it down. But the diff definitely "works" lol. Like someone is trying to escape out of the trunk using a hammer.

While up on the lift, the steering rack bushings and front sway bar endlinks were changed out.

UnkfUOn.jpg

Nismo bushings on left, OEM on the right. They really weren't in bad shape at all, neither was most of the bushings etc I've replaced. Previous owner took care of this car pretty well or its just because he only put 49k miles on it in 25 years. The nismo bushings are definitely a lot stiffer though.

R48Mk9p.jpg

While on the lift gave me time to snap a few pics of the rear.

GO3KjhQ.jpg

yoduRdx.jpg

QnTp2G8.jpg

UmMWYHR.jpg

Then it was time to install the Nismo trunk floor support bar. Kind of a qwerky piece but interesting. Not sure on how much it really stiffens things up, but the R32 is a car that needs all the bracing it can get. I believe the R34 had these designed into them from the factory. I believe the late model r33 had some kind rear bracing and also the S15 silvia got an OEM rear trunk bar. So apparently they do a little something for stiffness. But anyways, here it is

a0DtZdA.jpg

sSFgURl.jpg

owCj6Bm.jpg

je00MSt.jpg

ljoyUZm.jpg

jtAN6Rn.jpg

Kind of a cool little piece, Im happy with it after install. Had to trim the rear paneling and make holes for the bolts in the carpet to keep a clean install. Didn't turn out to bad

  • Like 3
  • 1 month later...

finally received my last little tidbits of parts to go ahead and finish up. 

Got the right hubs for the new wheel bearings.

Ih07hBu.jpg

little hicas nuts

aRZJx6t.jpg

sway bar bolts

SZmqaFP.jpg

New OEM hood moldings also

We2tBbk.jpg

Does anyone have any idea what this faded out sticker looks like? I would like to get a new one if at all possible.

S9rCmfH.jpg

I also intalled the Omori Factory shift boot and ebrake boot. Went ahead and put in the N1 radio delete pocket as well. Kind of sucks though because the previous owner installed tweeters by the side view mirrors and im pretty sure they have ruined the door panels underneath. So I left them on lol. At least that looks finished compared to random bad spot on the panel. They are kind of hidden from outside view anyways.

dmkt1OC.jpg

Also, got a new house. Nice having my ride in my own garage so I can do whatever. Most of the time, just starring at it lol.

BdfLFYz.jpg

Have my own little JDM parts dungeon, all s13 and r32 parts lol

rbBFeyo.jpg

Also, obviously got to test drive! Car feels very nice. Very smooth and planted. The nismo diff is pretty sweet. Instant hookup. Car stays much straighter when braking traction or launching hard etc. I used to get a smidge of torque steer when I would shift and chirp second etc. Not now, it still chirps but it just keeps going lol. The noise is a little shocking at first, always sounds broken etc. But it still needs to be broke in a bit. I've only put maybe 50 miles on it. Also, clutching in on tight slow turns takes all the popping away lol. Very fun car to drive, feel very confident in it.

Edited by JTCC
  • Like 2
  • Sad 1
  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/1/2018 at 2:05 AM, r32-25t said:

Where did you get the omori boots from?

Got them from someone on Facebook. Here is what I know about them. Old offer from omori.

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/news_list/news_20150709_2.html

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...