Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ETs have always indicated setup, MPH have always indicated power

Nothing has changed.

Dynos lie, MPH don't.

Power and setup will make a difference in MPH

For example if we have 2 cars with 450awkw, one with -5's and a dog box and one with a Gt42 and standard gearbox with a clutch that won't shift at high rpm the car with the -5 will trap higher obviously.

The guys with the 500kw dyno graphs trapping 125mph very well could have that power but might not have the tyres, clutch, gearbox, powerband, driver to use it properly.

^---- that is the truest of all.

Other numbers, lap times. It's all just numbers. It's all just some kind of respresentation of some aspect of the car. You can think of the drag strip as either an "advanced dyno" or a reason to live.

  • Like 1

Agree to disagree.

Statistically speaking a 300kw a gtr should trap at 120mph approximately. So when talking of any other cars with similar weights they are always in the ball park with a half decent setup for traction and drive line.

The big variable is usually ET, but mph is always there or thereabouts.

Power and setup will make a difference in MPH

For example if we have 2 cars with 450awkw, one with -5's and a dog box and one with a Gt42 and standard gearbox with a clutch that won't shift at high rpm the car with the -5 will trap higher obviously.

The guys with the 500kw dyno graphs trapping 125mph very well could have that power but might not have the tyres, clutch, gearbox, powerband, driver to use it properly.

So the reason there MPH is down to mechanical issues there, easily explained and logical. :thumbsup:

So the reason there MPH is down to mechanical issues there, easily explained and logical. :thumbsup:

I went from a Ppg dog box 400rwkw setup that trapped 131 to a standard box slowly shifting with a easy launch down to 126mph exact same power.

Just saying there's a bit more to it then rolling out with a certain hp and running X mph.

ETs have always indicated setup, MPH have always indicated power

Nothing has changed.

Dynos lie, MPH don't.

No 100% correct.

same car 2 different tyres *10-15mph difference... same day same driver. Changing from 215 nankangs to 255 et streets didnt magically make any more power.

Gone are the average days of a bit of spin then grip enough to cross the line.... half the "average" turbo cars nowadays will powerskid 400m no sweat... and cross the line way off the optimum MPH.

  • Like 2

Agree to disagree.

Statistically speaking a 300kw a gtr should trap at 120mph approximately. So when talking of any other cars with similar weights they are always in the ball park with a half decent setup for traction and drive line.

The big variable is usually ET, but mph is always there or thereabouts.

No 100% correct.

same car 2 different tyres *10-15mph difference... same day same driver. Changing from 215 nankangs to 255 et streets didnt magically make any more power.

Gone are the average days of a bit of spin then grip enough to cross the line.... half the "average" turbo cars nowadays will powerskid 400m no sweat... and cross the line way off the optimum MPH.

As I said in the post above. A half decent setup for traction and driveline will see mph there or thereabouts. This means a good set of tyres at least obviously.

My point being, if someone quotes a dyno figure, then the next question is what mph did it run. If its lower than the expected range with a fair 1/4 mile run, then the power level needs to be questioned.

Well that's the way I have always confirmed my cars and everyone I know does the same thing.

So in the case above did the final mph support the dyno numbers?

Same goes for running semi's on a roller dyno and strapping the car down hard, no-one will be interested when you run 50kw less than your projected output.

Some cars are setup for drag and some aren't. It's less reliable than the dyno figures you are trying to prove misleading imo.

^ thats a fair call.

BUT what you are missing if you just take off normally at a drag strip your MPH will still be similar at a given weight/power ratio.

Doesn't matter on setup and if you are in a GTR you will have traction unless you are running silly power and really poor rubber.

That is how the online MPH calculators work and they are pretty good.

DISCLAIMER: This doesn't take into account bad driving etc.

Remember doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile.

Edited by Stixbnr32
  • Like 1

^ thats a fair call.

BUT what you are missing if you just take off normally at a drag strip your MPH will still be similar at a given weight/power ratio.

Doesn't matter on setup and if you are in a GTR you will have traction unless you are running silly power and really poor rubber.

That is how the online MPH calculators work and they are pretty good.

DISCLAIMER: This doesn't take into account bad driving etc.

Remember doesn't matter if you win by an inch or a mile.

So did you not read Ryan1200's post a few up about exact same power, just different gearbox and 5mph difference??

So it does matter on set up etc and is not just all about what power you run.

Your online calculator can't take differences like a dog vs normal H pattern into account.

More to it than X power runs X mph

Edited by tricstar

With manual gearboxes.... Power under the curve drastically changes mph,not just the peak , with autos because the converter setup properly is spinning the motor in its sweet spot constantly

its easier to use mph vs power.

Its still a good marker regardless...many problems have been found at a dragstrip vs a dyno due to mph being off. Boostleaks are a big one. A car will run hard to 1/2 track and drop

mph big time in the back half.

cheers

darren

Yeah but then we are talking ratios and driver performance (slow gear changes) if you are changing gearboxes.

Lets not get into that - we all know a seq can change quicker than a H pattern and you will most likely end up with higher MPH.

I know I have contradicted myself here a little but lets compare apples with apples.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
    • Yeah, I guess its pretty easy to get to if this doesn't work. Just wait till next oil change and pull it out. I am going to have to do the oil pan gasket soon and thought I'd just replace it while I was there.  Thanks
    • All that matters is you're safe and you were able to type that post. Hopefully heaps of parts you can recover for the next shell.  
×
×
  • Create New...